Small bathroom remodel..

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Jadnashua

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What you saw in the roller pan is the result of getting too thick of a coating, and where the wet film thickness gauge can help. Coats no thicker than specified, and no more total thickness than specified does not crack and split like that which, I think, is caused by uneven drying and the resulting shrinkage. The thinner coats allow the liquid carrier to evaporate without issue.
 

Vegas_sparky

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The stuff stinks like hair coloring dye while its drying. I wonder if there's some type of peroxide liquifier, or something similar in it.

I know it bled through the shirt I was wearing, and using to wipe my finger tips off. Now my chest and belly look like I have the Ebola! LOL
 

Vegas_sparky

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I'm at the Vegas house til the 4 day Thanksgiving weekend, when I plan to knock out as much tile as I can.

Today I set the mosaics for the niche backs on 1/4" Hardi. My little MK cut through these no problem. Kinda strange seeing metal shavings in the saw tub. They'll sit right here on the coffee table until Tuesday, when I load them up. Moving them will suck.

IMG_20141121_145910468.jpg


I had a pretty big handful of scraps, and a several full pieces leftover. I might end up using these at the door threshold or something.

IMG_20141121_151130106_HDR.jpg


Picked up the Rondec, a new trowel, and 8 bags of Prolite. Ready to go.
 

ShowerDude

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nice cuts.....if i may, I would pull out the aluminum tiles in the path of my blade.

at $40-$70 a pop ... save the blade!

Vegas prolite will work great with those tile choices.

have fun
 

Jadnashua

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A cement paver block can help clean up a wetsaw blade if you get it gummed up with aluminum, and most other stuff. If your pump has any adjustment, boost the flow to max. In the scheme of things, aluminum is pretty soft when compared to most tiles, especially some porcelains. Without enough cooling, the blade can end up melting the aluminum, and clog it up.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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The cut edges look like shit Vegas. Are you hiding that cut edge?

You need to get a polishing pad and then retool each tile to make it look pretty. The trick is keeping the rotation of the pad cutting (polishing) on the push. When it polish on the pull it can chip easier.

One polish pad, some altered vice grips and a good hour should see all those rough cuts fixed. It's glass so you can even see a chip when it's lapped.

I want to see a baby easement of the edge as well! lol
 

Vegas_sparky

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That's all I'm doing. I'll set these back pieces first. The cuts get buried by sides/tops/bottoms.

I had asked about cutting these a few posts ago. No response. Don't give me shit after the fact. That's a dick move.
 
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Vegas_sparky

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vegas i dont understand the 1/8 " question why are u taking an 1/8 off

I'll try to explain with a drawing. I'll butt horizontal tile to vertical where the dry area wall tile ends/alcove begins. Top of tiles A and B are same elevation. Rondec defines the inside corner. Tile A is 23 5/8"(23 1/2"+1/8") with one grout joint at bottom. Tiles B and C will have 2 grout joints, and will total 23 3/4"(11 3/4"+1/8"+11 3/4"+1/8") at intersection D. I need to shave just a hair off B and/or C so grout joint at D lines up right, otherwise tile C hangs down an 1/8".

IMG_20141122_154220755_HDR.jpg


Make any sense? I want the orientation transition for general room layout.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Here's a shitty graphic I did on my phone to describe. On the opposite side wall the dry area tile will butt into the bump out/jog in the wall. That wall won't be nearly as visable because of toilet/vanity/etc. This wall will be highly visable. Is this transition a bad idea?
PicsArt_1416703840001.jpg
 
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ShowerDude

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you can cut both tiles equally B & C , but now you Re committed to perfectly cutting a very hard porcelain with a thin veneer .

i have cut that tile its HARD and the long cuts chip . it can be done but can you do it?

option B is force an offset random with the border tile A. more options but start there
 

Vegas_sparky

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No more than 1/8". LOL The 1/2" Rondec will be an eyesore as it is.

I'll try to cut it. Better to shave 1/32" off each edge of the two tiles, 1/16" off bottoms of each, or bite the 1/8" off bottom of one of them? I have lots of extra to practice. I only have to do this to correct 1 horizontal/vertical grout intersection. It will hit the floor before I hit another grout joint from the verticals.

Thanks, bro. :)
 

JohnfrWhipple

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The secret tool for that fine tuning your tile width. Hit the back side of the tile with a score line (60% cut ball park) and then fine tune the sliver cut with a polish pad. The back cut just removes a little material. I use a diamond blade as well for some dry cuts prior to the polish pad.

This is the way I prep my mitred corners.

How I make new factory edges.

Then finish with the 60 grit diamond sanding block for a new micro bevel.

Fine%2BTuning%2BMarmi%2BTile%2Bwith%2BPolishing%2BPad.jpg
 

Vegas_sparky

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Thanks, John. I have a v speed wet/dry polisher w/diamond pads. I picked that up to bullnose the curb tile in the last shower. I'll give it a shot.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Got most of the alcove walls done yesterday. The edges of these tiles have a slight bevel from face to back. Not using any spacers, except the leveling clips themselves, I can keep a consistent 3/32" grout line. Doing the lid now, then around top of tub, then demo out toilet and vanity for dry wall areas. So far, so good. Right? :cool: LOL

IMG_20141128_083058020_HDR.jpg
 

JohnfrWhipple

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What a great photo Vegas. Looks tight.

Looks like your shying away from thin-set on the edges of the tile. You should see thin-set on the tile edges not shadows. The bottom tile has no thin-set on the exterior lower edge. I would force some more thin-set into all those seams with your next mix. It takes almost five to eight passes in one spot to fill even a smaller void. You know your getting good coverage when the prior work starts mushrooming nearby the work zone.

Once down you should then rake away the grout joints. And clean well. Giving room for your grout later. Do not overwater the mix to make it easier - make sure to fully mix (spin time, plus slake and re-spin) your thin-set or risk some latex leaching.

You do not want any voids where water can collect.
 
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