Leaking new TOTO C744E toilet...help please.

[eahp99]

We just installed a new TOTO C744E toilet bowl with a new ST743E toilet tank. It was leaking very slightly on the right side ( a very slow drip--nothing that would wet through a hand towel even after two days) coming out of the right side tank bolt area (no wetness on the left side of tank). The plumber came back and readjusted the bolts making sure they were tight and secure...still the leak--ever so slight continued. After a week we ordered a new tank thinking there surely must have been a leak somewhere around the tank bolt hole area. BUT, we are having the same exact issue with the replacement tank. Could it be the tank-to-bowl gasket is not seating properly between the CST744e bowl and the ST743e tank? Is there a 744e tank we should be getting? When we checked online for the proper tank to go with our bowl it recommended the version we purchased; which was the ST743E.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help with this issue.

 

[WJcandee]

You have the right combination of tank and bowl.

Your problem is most likely an installation problem.

The Original Drake, CST744E, is composed of the ST743E tank and the C744E bowl. That's what you have. That's what I have two of. The C743E bowl is the round one and the C744E bowl is the elongated one, but they share the same tank, which is the ST743E tank.

There is now an optional "new style" tank that looks totally different. Both tanks work with both bowls. That toilet model is number CST744EN, and the number they gave the new tank is ST744E.

The right way to install those tank bolts is: bolt head in tank, rubber washer in tank, metal washer on other side of tank, then nut, then put that onto bowl, secure with rubber washer, metal washer and nut. Handy-hacks always try to put the metal washer inside the tank, which causes leaks.

If that is fine, look at the Drake installation tips above. My guess is maybe the bottom of the tank is a little rough on the inside. We recommend that one sand the bottom of the tank on the inside next to the bolt holes with a little very fine sandpaper to make sure it's totally smooth so the washer adheres to the porcelain with no leaks.

To put a finer point on it, I would be sure to consider whether the plumber might want to snug up that big nut on the flush valve. If he's a plumber, he probably did so as a matter of course before installation, but if he didn't...

PS this doesn't apply to the Toto Aquia, but that's not your model...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Wallijonn]

I just installed the Korky tank to bowl gasket kit, #481BP spud gasket on my leaking-the-same-way Drake. On my second Drake I coated the spud gasket with plumber's pure silicon grease.

 

[WJcandee]

I think Terry says that using that plumber's grease is a mistake, but I'll take the correction if I'm wrong. I also don't see any way that the leak described is caused by the tank to bowl gasket.

 

[Terry]

I think Terry says that using that plumber's grease is a mistake, but I'll take the correction if I'm wrong. I also don't see any way that the leak described is caused by the tank to bowl gasket.

Plumbers putty is what I don't like. I've never used grease on the rubber parts though. Normally you can check for things be clean, smooth and snug and that's good enough.

 

[eahp99]

Plumbers putty is what I don't like. I've never used grease on the rubber parts though. Normally you can check for things be clean, smooth and snug and that's good enough.

OK...here's the latest on my toilet situation...he came back and completely drying out the tank, he sanded down the tank around the bolt area and then re-installed the bolts, rubber washers and nuts all as you said. Then to be doubly sure-he put silicone seal around the bolts inside and under tank. We let that all set up for 48 hours, then refilled the tank. After about 12 hours i checked the towel i had resting on the floor under the toilet and could not believe the towel was damp again! He came back today, and took the tank off and we set it on the counter top and filled it with water and are waiting to see where the leak is dripping down the stopper-flap thing. There is (after 4 hours) a most teenie water droplet there. I am thinking when the toilet is flushed the water pressure is forcing the water to flush through and out around the gasket when its sitting on top of the bowl. Is there a better gasket we can buy to maybe seat itself down into the bowl's neck area more??

 

[eahp99]

I just installed the Korky tank to bowl gasket kit, #481BP spud gasket on my leaking-the-same-way Drake. On my second Drake I coated the spud gasket with plumber's pure silicon grease.

can you let me know what the "Korky tank" is and where i might find the correct gasket to try--i was wondering if a larger, longer-necked gasket, would do the trick...it seems maybe we just need something to sit down deeper into the toilet bowl neck area so there is no splashing when flushed...if that is what's causing the leakage...i cant imagine what else would be causing this though...???
And --BTW--did this fix solve your problems?

 

[WJcandee]

He said tank-to-bowl gasket. It's the rubber thing that goes over the flush valve nut.

I seriously doubt that that is where your leak is, but anything is possible, I guess. The Toto gasket has been used on tens of thousands of Drakes without a problem, so I really don't think you should be trying to figure out the engineering of this by yourself. I would be burning up the phone line to Toto customer service.

Has your guy snugged up the flush valve nut?

If water is leaking around the tank-t0-bowl gasket, I'm thinking maybe the tank hasn't been tightened so it's wobble-free, properly-vertical, and so that the three points of contact are almost-touching.

 

[Reach4]

After about 12 hours i checked the towel i had resting on the floor under the toilet and could not believe the towel was damp again!

I would move that towel higher to make sure that the water is coming from the tank area rather than the base.

Also, are you confident that the water is not coming from the fill valve area?

And as jwcandee pointed out, you should not be able to slide a piece of paper between the tank and the bowl at the three contact points.

 

[eahp99]

He said tank-to-bowl gasket. It's the rubber thing that goes over the flush valve nut.

I seriously doubt that that is where your leak is, but anything is possible, I guess. The Toto gasket has been used on tens of thousands of Drakes without a problem, so I really don't think you should be trying to figure out the engineering of this by yourself. I would be burning up the phone line to Toto customer service.

Has your guy snugged up the flush valve nut?

If water is leaking around the tank-t0-bowl gasket, I'm thinking maybe the tank hasn't been tightened so it's wobble-free, properly-vertical, and so that the three points of contact are almost-touching.

definitely yes on the "flush valve nut tightening".
and yes, the tank was never wobbly at all. I will call their number again, i just didn't get through to anyone the first time i tired--and then i found you guys--i was hoping all of you would have all the answers i would need!
and the leak is DEFINITELY coming from the tank area--that is the source of the leak for sure...originally all the water was leaking down through and around the right side bolt out the bowl bolt area until he siliconed that all from op to bottom...then it was coming out the backside trickling down the back onto the towel on the floor. definitely not coming from the bottom of bowl.

 

[hj]

If the leak occurs when the toilet is flushed, then the problem is the tank to bowl gasket, but if it leaks ALL THE TIME, then it is a tank bolt problem.

 

[Wallijonn]

can you let me know what the "Korky tank" is and where i might find the correct gasket to try

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/toto-drake-toilet-product-review.5241/page-16
posit #320.

http://www.korky.com/?p=Product&i=1051

It is slightly taller and stiffer than the stock black spud washer, so take care not to crack the porcelain when tightening the bolts. Tughten the bolts and check for front to back play - stop when there is minimal play; alternately tighten the bolts until the tank is snug.

As I said, I didn't want to have the same problem on my other Drake so I applied ACE Hardware 90% Pure Silicon Grease ("DANCO Waterproof Grease" should be readily available in most hardware stores, too) on the top surface that meets the tank and two adjacent inner surfaces; I also used it on the bolt threads so that it can be easily removed years from now. I can't remember if I coated the underside of the rubber washers inside the tank, though.

Many samples: http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0SO8x_pKXFUSRQA7d5XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTB0bGJyc2JhBHNlYwNzYwRjb2xvA2dxMQR2dGlkA1ZJUDU1Nl8x?_adv_prop=image&va=plumbers pure silicone grease

 

[eahp99]

update!
just wanted to let all you very helpful people know--the toilet is now fixed!! I called Toto directly and explained the trouble we were having. They suggested adding pipe dope to the valve nut and re-thread it back on and then add pipe dope to the part of gasket that touches down on the toilet bowl. After letting it sit over night, we then turned the water back on and have not had a drop of water leaking since. Thanks to all of you for you help!!

 

[WJcandee]

update!
just wanted to let all you very helpful people know--the toilet is now fixed!! I called Toto directly and explained the trouble we were having. They suggested adding pipe dope to the valve nut and re-thread it back on and then add pipe dope to the part of gasket that touches down on the toilet bowl. After letting it sit over night, we then turned the water back on and have not had a drop of water leaking since. Thanks to all of you for you help!!

So glad we could help!! Also glad that Toto stepped up and helped you to solve your problem. I have always found them to be very nice and truly caring.

 

[Wallijonn]

They suggested adding pipe dope to the valve nut and re-thread it back on and then add pipe dope to the part of gasket that touches down on the toilet bowl.

Where Jaime has the wrench, is that the "valve nut" you're talking about? Yes, that would be the flush valve nut. (As opposed to fill valve nut.)

You put pipe dope on the black spud washer top? Or did you add it to the inside of the spud washer before slipping it over the flush valve water outlet nut?

Images from: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....efg-2-piece-toilet-written-by-jamie-love.743/

 

[eahp99]

hello-
Yes, that would be the flush valve nut. (As opposed to fill valve nut.)
And, the pipe dope was also put on a new (Korky gasket) "black spud washer" top where it connects directly to the top on the toilet bowl area...not inside the gasket touching the valve nut.