Chuck B
sea-bee
RE: NORTHERN MICHIGAN 700 SQUARE FOOT LAKESIDE COTTAGE
Structure:
Built on Post, Beam, and Joist hardwood - very solid (circa 1939 - true dimensional saw mill timber). About an 18" free air space underneath with only removable lattice around perimeter. All timber and underside of subfloor is dry due to great airflow.
Floors:
Subfloor is 5/8" tongue and groove hardwood nailed to joists. I have added a new layer of 5/8" exterior grade plywood inside for under carpet.
Exterior Walls:
Tongue and groove original 5/8" wood siding, with a 1/4" folding blue foamboard under vinyl siding.
Windows & Doors:
New Super Efficient Andersen 100 "fiber" casement windows with upgraded Argon filled "E" Glass.
Two new Fiberglass exterior doors with minimal glass and storm doors.
Insulation:
Walls: 3 1/2" fiberglass batts (with aforementioned wood siding, blueboard, vinyl siding). 5/8" tongue and groove Knotty Pine on walls and ceilings. No drywall underneath.
Attic: 6" fiberglass batts with kraft paper vapor barrier, additional 12" blown in fiberglass on top.
Well ventilated with generous soffit and attic ridge venting.
Room Layout:
The studs are exposed, and time to plan heat. Cottage located in Pellston, Michigan on Douglas Lake, the "coldest spot in the nation" on average in the winter. Many below zero days.
Usage:
Will plan on living there 8-12 months a year.
Already have Cadet baseboard heaters that I purchased for next to nothing when Builder's Square went out of business. Not concerned if they are not utilized. All ceilings are 8', no cathedral ceilings.
Although I cannot offer LP or electric rates at present, am wondering about cost effectiveness, the "feel" when comparing the two. The ability to add A/C not an issue. Understand that a high-efficiency LP furnace is not practical if cottage is left unheated as residual water from 2nd heat exchanger would freeze?! Would not choose to leave LP heat on when not there and uncertain travel plans during winter.
Since the cottage bedroom is small, I realize that bedding (blankets, bedspread/comforter) near baseboards is a fire hazard. Have about 2' clearance.
Not concerned about using a humidifier attached to a central LP furnace as that would present additional winterizing blowout issues. Could use portable humidifiers in either option.
Would expect insulated duct runs to go "under cottage" so that the floors are warmer if I go with LP.
Although cost is an issue for a new LP furnace installation, I am mostly concerned about the cost of heating in a bitterly cold environment for 4 months, and the feel of the heat. Many of the year round residents on the lake use wood fired boilers with LP backup.
Any thoughts? Thanks, Chuck
Structure:
Built on Post, Beam, and Joist hardwood - very solid (circa 1939 - true dimensional saw mill timber). About an 18" free air space underneath with only removable lattice around perimeter. All timber and underside of subfloor is dry due to great airflow.
Floors:
Subfloor is 5/8" tongue and groove hardwood nailed to joists. I have added a new layer of 5/8" exterior grade plywood inside for under carpet.
Exterior Walls:
Tongue and groove original 5/8" wood siding, with a 1/4" folding blue foamboard under vinyl siding.
Windows & Doors:
New Super Efficient Andersen 100 "fiber" casement windows with upgraded Argon filled "E" Glass.
Two new Fiberglass exterior doors with minimal glass and storm doors.
Insulation:
Walls: 3 1/2" fiberglass batts (with aforementioned wood siding, blueboard, vinyl siding). 5/8" tongue and groove Knotty Pine on walls and ceilings. No drywall underneath.
Attic: 6" fiberglass batts with kraft paper vapor barrier, additional 12" blown in fiberglass on top.
Well ventilated with generous soffit and attic ridge venting.
Room Layout:
- Living area is a rectangle of about 500 square feet includes living area (with Murphy bed for guests), kitchen and eating area.
- One separately enclosed (master) bedroom.
- Full master bath, that passes through
- Small laundry - utility room for well pump, softener,water heater
The studs are exposed, and time to plan heat. Cottage located in Pellston, Michigan on Douglas Lake, the "coldest spot in the nation" on average in the winter. Many below zero days.
Usage:
Will plan on living there 8-12 months a year.
Already have Cadet baseboard heaters that I purchased for next to nothing when Builder's Square went out of business. Not concerned if they are not utilized. All ceilings are 8', no cathedral ceilings.
Although I cannot offer LP or electric rates at present, am wondering about cost effectiveness, the "feel" when comparing the two. The ability to add A/C not an issue. Understand that a high-efficiency LP furnace is not practical if cottage is left unheated as residual water from 2nd heat exchanger would freeze?! Would not choose to leave LP heat on when not there and uncertain travel plans during winter.
Since the cottage bedroom is small, I realize that bedding (blankets, bedspread/comforter) near baseboards is a fire hazard. Have about 2' clearance.
Not concerned about using a humidifier attached to a central LP furnace as that would present additional winterizing blowout issues. Could use portable humidifiers in either option.
Would expect insulated duct runs to go "under cottage" so that the floors are warmer if I go with LP.
Although cost is an issue for a new LP furnace installation, I am mostly concerned about the cost of heating in a bitterly cold environment for 4 months, and the feel of the heat. Many of the year round residents on the lake use wood fired boilers with LP backup.
Any thoughts? Thanks, Chuck
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