How to avoid burnout when soldering?

[lmei007]

I have some soldering experiences on 1/2" and 3/4" pipes with propane. I am confident my skill on them.

Today I just tried 1" with MAPP. The first joint is a 1"x1"x1/2" tee. It turned out a nightmare. It was burnout. I have to redo it.

It seems that when the temperature reach to the point needed by the lead-free solder, the flux is also burnout. I am using #95 tinning flux. All materials are bought from HomeDepot.

Or I applied the solder too late?

How do you avoid the burnout? Is there a way to repair the burnout joints?

 

[Terry]

If the joint is a leaker, then it needs to be removed, cleaned and refluxed.
There's no way around that.

With a large joint, it helps to touch the solder every so often to see how it's doing. It's really the only clue you will ever get.
Even heat on all sides is a help, and don't forget to warm the pipes too.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Plumber69]

I have some soldering experiences on 1/2" and 3/4" pipes with propane. I am confident my skill on them.

Today I just tried 1" with MAPP. The first joint is a 1"x1"x1/2" tee. It turned out a nightmare. It was burnout. I have to redo it.

It seems that when the temperature reach to the point needed by the lead-free solder, the flux is also burnout. I am using #95 tinning flux. All materials are bought from HomeDepot.

Or I applied the solder too late?

How do you avoid the burnout? Is there a way to repair the burnout joints?

Sounds like you have to move the torch around more, avoid flaming one spot to long

 

[Terry]

Sounds like you have to move the torch around more, avoid flaming one spot to long

Yep!

 

[DonL]

Is that burn out or blow out ?

The proper Tip and how to use it works for me.

Real solder and flux helps also.

I use the stuff that may kill you, but only if you live in California.

Living in Texas has it advantages.


We still have Lead Bullets here. They work Great.


Good luck.

 

[hj]

Water soluble flux is very difficult to work with because you only have a narrow window between making the solder flow and burning the flux. Once it is burnt, you have to redo the joint completely.

 

[Jadnashua]

Since I don't do this all that often, I really hate the water based fluxes, but have had pretty good success with the tinning fluxes - it's normally pretty easy to see when the solder in the tinning flux melts, then you know you should be able to add the solder to fill it in. But, as the pros stress, you do have to move the torch around to heat things evenly so one part doesn't get overheated before the others are hot enough. Takes a little finesse and practice, especially if you don't do it every day.

 

[Plumber69]

I have a preference in what I use to solder, but I have no problems soldering using any products.... Just remember to use lots of flux before you put your sharkbite on.

 

[hj]

quote; .... Just remember to use lots of flux before you put your sharkbite on.

I assume Sharkbite is like Guest and says to NOT get chemicals, including flux, on the pipe or fitting. As far as flux goes, they tell you NOT to "slather" it on, use the minimum possible.

 

[Bluebinky]

You might want to practice on a few sacrificial fittings out in the open -- it's a lot less frustrating. Maybe even cut one open to see how you did...

 

[GOT2LEARN]

I have a video on this that explains it all: