There's always water flowing through that backwash line into my sump pump hole/container, so the sump pump comes on every half hour or so. Is that normal? If not, is there a way I can stop the constant flow of water?
Thank you.
Thank you.
Iron filter backwash line
- Thread starter supramax
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Probably not normal, so there should be a way to stop that flow. What does the backwash line connect to? If it is a controller, such as for a water softener, then repair the controller. Post a picture if you don't know what that device is.
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I expect you meant that the backwash line connects to a pipe that runs directly to the sump that contains the sump pump.
Is it possible that there is another source of water that feeds that sump? That is my guess-- that ground water or other source that feed the sump-- possibly through the same pipe. You did not say that the pipe is above the floor and visible the whole way. You did not say that you could see the water come out of that particular pipe.
If the problem were that filter controller, you could probably stop the flow by putting that filter into bypass. That would pin the problem on the filter controller.
If the problem is that filter controller then the controller is bad and should be repaired/rebuilt/replaced.
Is it possible that there is another source of water that feeds that sump? That is my guess-- that ground water or other source that feed the sump-- possibly through the same pipe. You did not say that the pipe is above the floor and visible the whole way. You did not say that you could see the water come out of that particular pipe.
If the problem were that filter controller, you could probably stop the flow by putting that filter into bypass. That would pin the problem on the filter controller.
If the problem is that filter controller then the controller is bad and should be repaired/rebuilt/replaced.
Thank you for the prompt response. Yes, bypassing the filter fixes the problem and it's bypassed at night and when I'm not using large amounts of water. When the filter is in 'normal operation' mode, I can hear the water flowing through the backwash line. I guess it's time to call the (expensive) pump people. Is there any way I could fix the controller?
You should post pictures of the front and back of the controller. Limit uploaded photos to 800 pixels or less. Also, look for tags identifying the controller. I don't mean one in the front, but rather littler tags that are not obvious from the front.
MacDonald MEV 2000 Pro device is made from components that are probably more recognizable than the system designation.
MacDonald MEV 2000 Pro device is made from components that are probably more recognizable than the system designation.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
I've had a problem with my iron filter whereby the media percolated up into the valves in the head preventing the valve from closing after the backwash. The root cause was that the AVC on my precipitation tank was not venting off excess air and it was moving forward into the iron filter during backwash. The mix of air and water caused an violent uplift of the media much like when a pot boils over on the stove.
MEVFX-8 is the only tag on the back. The lady of the house is out with the camera. I'll take photos when she returns. Am I correct in asuming that the pictures are to be taken with the front cover off?
I don't know what a precipitation tank is.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
In my case, air is injected into the water stream using a micronizer. The precipitation tank is a hydro-pneumatic pressure tank (air over water) where the water has some contact time with the air so that the iron can precipitate out of solution to later be filtered (trapped). The interior of the tank is not a nice environment and the AVC (Air Volume Control) can and does get built up with iron and other mineral deposits so as such it is a high maintenance item.
When the AVC fails to vent excess air, the air moves forward to the iron filter at the bottom of every pump cycle and in operating mode it collects at the top of the media only to be purged during backwash.
When the AVC fails to vent excess air, the air moves forward to the iron filter at the bottom of every pump cycle and in operating mode it collects at the top of the media only to be purged during backwash.
That would be the Clack WS1. While Clack does not like people to sell you parts directly by mail, but rather only wants you to deal with dealers. One place you can get parts is
http://www.softenerparts.com/Clack_WS1_Valve_Parts_s/45.htm
That page links to a Youtube video. http://www.softenerparts.com/category_s/3064.htm has manuals.
I don't have any experience with that valve, but others have. It is well-respected.
http://www.softenerparts.com/Clack_WS1_Valve_Parts_s/45.htm
That page links to a Youtube video. http://www.softenerparts.com/category_s/3064.htm has manuals.
I don't have any experience with that valve, but others have. It is well-respected.
If it were mine, I would start by trying to understand the gist of diagrams on page 21... page 23 with emphasis on the first diagram on page 21. Note that the piston slides left and right, and lets high parts of the piston seal or not seal against seals. When a piston valley lines up with a seal, there is an intentional path for water.
My theory is that one of the seals that should be blocking water in the service mode is passing water.
Once I thought I understood the diagrams to some level, I would either get a rebuild kit and try to rebuild, or I would first carefully go inside to look for damage. On any seals/O-rings that I install or reuse, I would apply food-grade or plumber's silicone grease. I got MolyKote 111, which is thicker than people most use. A little goes a long way. I use nitrile gloves when applying it. Get silicone grease on order or get it at your plumbing supply place if you don't have it. I would rather use that grease where it is unneeded than to not use it when it might help. If anything is damaged, and you don't already have the kit, then pause while you get the parts or put it back together to let it behave as it has been, until I could take it apart once the parts come. Before going inside, I would watch the video a few more times. Remember that reusing O-rings is against the advice of the video. Getting a rebuild kit and replacing stuff, even if you don't see the flaw, is the better course of action.
Or just have a water conditioning pro who rebuilds that valve rebuild it for you. It might take an hour or so vs the 20 hours it would take me if I am lucky. He will have the parts.
I have been into my valve softener valve. I have not been into my filter valved. Neither are similar to your valve.
My theory is that one of the seals that should be blocking water in the service mode is passing water.
Once I thought I understood the diagrams to some level, I would either get a rebuild kit and try to rebuild, or I would first carefully go inside to look for damage. On any seals/O-rings that I install or reuse, I would apply food-grade or plumber's silicone grease. I got MolyKote 111, which is thicker than people most use. A little goes a long way. I use nitrile gloves when applying it. Get silicone grease on order or get it at your plumbing supply place if you don't have it. I would rather use that grease where it is unneeded than to not use it when it might help. If anything is damaged, and you don't already have the kit, then pause while you get the parts or put it back together to let it behave as it has been, until I could take it apart once the parts come. Before going inside, I would watch the video a few more times. Remember that reusing O-rings is against the advice of the video. Getting a rebuild kit and replacing stuff, even if you don't see the flaw, is the better course of action.
Or just have a water conditioning pro who rebuilds that valve rebuild it for you. It might take an hour or so vs the 20 hours it would take me if I am lucky. He will have the parts.
I have been into my valve softener valve. I have not been into my filter valved. Neither are similar to your valve.
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