Hi...new to the forum and find myself unwittingly becoming a technician with this new T-K4 . The dealer for this unit apparently doesn't have a clue to the problem. Ah...yes, the problem! Very limited hot water and now none. I'm in the process of checking and cleaning the water filters on the incoming cold water line. The Takagi sits at the end of a complex water filtration system where it is unlikely there is a clogged filter but it could happen. We're US living in Honduras so in fairness to the Takagi dealer solutions have had to be offered via email and a few very lengthy long distance phone sessions which usually took place when I was trying to run a Honduran work crew (???) at the same time I was trying to do all of the things the Takagi rep was asking me to do. Their conclusion has consistently been that I somehow crossed by plumbing (hot to cold or vice versa). Since I plumbed the house myself I know that could not have happened as the hot is CPVC and the cold is PVC and everyone here knows those O/D's are very different. The accountant/owner of the dealership felt he had a sucker on this end (maybe so) but not stupid and he kept calling for me to bring in a real plumber. So I did and he confirmed the plumbing since the walls at that time were wide open (sheetrock had yet to be installed) but the dealer ignored the findings saying the plumbing had to be incorrect. I have seen that mentioned on these blogs so apparently it really can happen (probably with copper lines). So where have I gone with this problem? Cold showers (can get really cold here in Honduras believe it or not!) get really old after just a few days. Think one year!
This is a LP system and the lines are properly sized. Pressure is right at 10col/inches but there are problems. My old T-K3 worked fine throughout this 2-story new home for about a year until (just guessing because no one really knows for sure) there was a fire at the unit. I heard a small explosion (bang) and searched all over the house for the source. Finally removed the panel to the T-K3 which is inside in the laundry room and there was the burnt marks and the computer board was fried in places. We suspect that some septic gases had been seeping past rags stuffed into the waste line in the adjoining unfinished bathroom. That has been corrected and a nice Kohler sits on that waste line.
Takagi was good enough to send me replacements parts (for free) and we replaced everything they said would likely be the cause. The T-K3 never worked again. Keep in mind that the T-K3 worked fine before the fire, so cross plumbing could not be the problem! So Takagi sent me (for free) a replacement. Interestingly enough they sent a T-k4. They told me the T-K3 was no longer being sold and the T-K4 was the replacement and with the remote control unit was the answer to my problems. Not so.
For a year I have tried one tech-offered solution after another. The dealer no longer wants to correspond with me and graciously referred me to another dealer who he said would take a fresh run at this. Gave me his email and I sent him an email tagged onto the very long thread but he chose not to get involved apparently. So I've had to become somewhat a tech. I've read things on this blog that were never even mentioned by their techs. Thank you for this forum! I never thought that dip #6 might possibly be a culprit. Also I never dreamed that dip #3 (altitude) had to be set for 3,000 meters. And that #7 had to be 'On' for the selected 122degr remote setting. I'll do these things and clean the filters again but I thought someone 1) might have some other suggestions; 2) others might also be experiencing the same problems; and 3) others might be heavily relying on service techs that I have found have very little on-the-job training but have been taught what to say when certain trigger words come up during a session. Bottom line they don't seem to have a clue. I could not find a single company source (not that there isn't one but it must be pretty well hidden!) for what each of those dip switches control. Still don't know all of them but thanks to this forum, I now know about at least a few of them. I'll give an update if someone cares to comment. Thanks in advance!!!
http://www.takagi.com/products/tankless-water-heaters/t-k4-in-p
This is a LP system and the lines are properly sized. Pressure is right at 10col/inches but there are problems. My old T-K3 worked fine throughout this 2-story new home for about a year until (just guessing because no one really knows for sure) there was a fire at the unit. I heard a small explosion (bang) and searched all over the house for the source. Finally removed the panel to the T-K3 which is inside in the laundry room and there was the burnt marks and the computer board was fried in places. We suspect that some septic gases had been seeping past rags stuffed into the waste line in the adjoining unfinished bathroom. That has been corrected and a nice Kohler sits on that waste line.
Takagi was good enough to send me replacements parts (for free) and we replaced everything they said would likely be the cause. The T-K3 never worked again. Keep in mind that the T-K3 worked fine before the fire, so cross plumbing could not be the problem! So Takagi sent me (for free) a replacement. Interestingly enough they sent a T-k4. They told me the T-K3 was no longer being sold and the T-K4 was the replacement and with the remote control unit was the answer to my problems. Not so.
For a year I have tried one tech-offered solution after another. The dealer no longer wants to correspond with me and graciously referred me to another dealer who he said would take a fresh run at this. Gave me his email and I sent him an email tagged onto the very long thread but he chose not to get involved apparently. So I've had to become somewhat a tech. I've read things on this blog that were never even mentioned by their techs. Thank you for this forum! I never thought that dip #6 might possibly be a culprit. Also I never dreamed that dip #3 (altitude) had to be set for 3,000 meters. And that #7 had to be 'On' for the selected 122degr remote setting. I'll do these things and clean the filters again but I thought someone 1) might have some other suggestions; 2) others might also be experiencing the same problems; and 3) others might be heavily relying on service techs that I have found have very little on-the-job training but have been taught what to say when certain trigger words come up during a session. Bottom line they don't seem to have a clue. I could not find a single company source (not that there isn't one but it must be pretty well hidden!) for what each of those dip switches control. Still don't know all of them but thanks to this forum, I now know about at least a few of them. I'll give an update if someone cares to comment. Thanks in advance!!!
http://www.takagi.com/products/tankless-water-heaters/t-k4-in-p
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