Recent content by WV Bob

Thanks. He's using what looks to be a 12" crescent wrench and a similar sized pipe wrench when tightening, pushing against each other. Sufficient torque isn't the problem. I will recommend the yellow tape since I have some here somewhere.

My bro-in-law is fighting a losing battle trying to connect 3/4" PEX to his tankless water heater. The water connection on the heater is 3/4" FNPT. The PEX fittings (Sioux Chief brand) are marked 3/4 IPT on the package so I think he's using the right size. There is no apparent thread damage...

Definitely no sleeve, and no reason to apologize. Once I realized I could use copper it was probably easier to fix with that than to fight more with the PEX.

The reason I didn't trust the slip joint on PEX is that it doesn't have the inside reinforcement. Directions say that can be removed for copper and PCV connections, but it is necessary for PEX. I could've taken one out of a Sharkbite coupler to use in the slip joint and hoped for the best, but...

Good point. Our panel is grounded to the copper right where it comes out of the slab from the meter. We had to drive a ground stake for our other house since it was redone with PEX.

For closure - success. Sharkbite coupler -> copper pipe -> sharkbite slip coupler.

I gave the slip fittings a good hard look and they don't have the PEX support in either end so they won't work for PEX at all. However, I did realize that I don't need PEX if I use one of those anyway. I can just use a normal coupler on one end, cut the spliced in piece of copper (type L of...

That's the way I interpreted it too, IF it's got the support ring thing on the non-slip side it should otherwise be the same as a normal sharkbite fitting..

Those slip fits are about $13. I'd give $100 for something I knew would work. I'll end up paying a lot more than that if I have to call in a plumber. I don't think it's going to come to that though.

I'm going to fill the gap with PEX, and if I use the slip fit it'll just be to fill between the end of the PEX and the start of the copper. I'll just use a normal sharkbite on the other end. I'm hoping I will be able to lengthen the gap and get the PEX to bend where I need it so I can just use...

Do you mean one with a slip fitting for copper on one end and a crimp/clamp fitting for PEX on the other? I did look for that and they don't make them although I don't know why. I'm planning on getting a slip coupling as shown in the posted video to take under with me just in case.

Yes, it's always best when there's a reason for the leak other than the pipe must be defective. OTOH, it is 60 years old now., or at least the house is. It's depressing in the crawl space - 60 years of bum work hidden under the floor.

I can solder, and had thought of a sweated slip coupling yesterday, but if there's any water (and there is) I'm not confident in drying it out. There is a long flat run to the repair spot that seemed to just keep dripping yesterday. The copper was leaking at a point where it had been nailed...

FWIW I've received tips on other forums telling me to cut out more copper to give the PEX room to flex. I've currently got about 2' cut out and since I can easily do that I plan to give it a shot. I'll probably drop back 5 or more feet and that gives me additional room PEX length too, and I'll...

I've got a leaking 1/2" copper supply line that I've been trying to fix with Sharkbites and PEX. The problem I've run into is the copper line is basically fixed in place so there's no "wiggle room" to fit the PEX in after allowing for the Sharkbite installation depth. What I end up with is on...