Recent content by Walkman

We leave the WH on. We have a recirculation pump, but it didn't make any difference when I unplugged it and closed the valve to the return line. I'll try a bigger expansion tank if extra PSI doesn't make a difference.

Increasing the pressure in the tank would help it absorb more thermal expansion?

New 50 gal AO Smith gas WH which is leaking small amounts of water out of the T&P valve. - I'm getting normal pressure reading of 50 lbs, with a max pressure reading 160 lbs. - I installed a new 2 gallon Everbuilt expansion tank which has 45 lbs of pressure. Would a larger expansion tank or...

I need to rough in plumbing for a kitchen sink as part of a remodel. I plan to install the plumbing in the wall. Cabinet and fixtures are not chosen yet, but will be a double sink (equal size with disposal on the left). DW to the left of the sink. Under counter water filter w/dispenser. Is...

That's good news. I thought the joint might have been weakened with age and vibration during the rehab. The smell is coming from the toilet area as the smell stopped in the bathroom when I caulked around the toilet (made it stronger in the basement). The sink and shower traps are okay and the...

Update: Thanks for responses below getting me off the idea of cast iron leaks -- turns out the wax ring wasn't big enough because it's on an oval shape offset flange. I didn't realize it when I followed the toilet instructions to mount their wax ring to the toilet. I'm trying a sani-seal now...

I can't find anything about Lyncar via google.

It looks like the removal tool that sharkbyte and others make is not made for cutting stainless. I've been using a dremel and then scoring the pex with a boxcutter until I can get the fitting off without damage, but it seems like there should be a better way.

I was referring to the tailpiece as the PVC part that goes into the drain pipe in the wall. I did as Terry suggested and the leak stopped.

I'm getting a slight leak where the tailpiece joins the j-bend. The diagram on the packaging doesn't show a washer in this location - it's just plastic on plastic. Do I need to tighten more, or use some kind of sealant?

Should I apply heat to the copper and get the chrome and solder out (or cut it flush so I could use a 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" couple to attach the trap tailpiece to the copper?

This is a 1 1/2" copper pipe that has a 1 1/4" chrome pipe soldered into it. The chrome piece has seen better days but is still serviceable. I'm going to install a PVC trap since it's inside a vanity but the tailpiece doesn't attach to this 1 1/4" piece of chrome. Should I get a coupling, or...

1) Thanks to the feedback, I replaced the copper with pex, eliminating the sharkbites. I bought brass pex/threaded pipe fittings designed to be attached to blocking. Replaced the galvanized nipples with brass. ?? Brass doesn't have the eventual corrosion problems as galvanized, right? Why was...

The copper is about two feet. Here are pictures of the fittings and the pex supply to the copper from the basement. - Would I have to cut or resolder the 2" copper drain pipe to get it to downslope from the trap? There should only be standing water in the trap, right?

I have a 60's ranch that had a mix of cast iron, copper and galvanized piping. Some of the galvanized has clogged or rusted through so when something starts leaking I've been working to get rid of the galvanized. I used to sweat copper, but have recently switched to using PEX. I want to fix...