Recent content by Valveman

Like WorthFlorida says you don't need a pressure tank/pressure switch if the only use is irrigation zone valves. But if you want the pump to come on when a faucet is opened, a pressure tank/pressure switch combo is needed.

Should be a dual voltage motor. The wires to the right of the flashing overload can be attached for either 115V or 230V. Need to make sure you have the voltage needed for whichever connection is being used. Checking the voltage coming out of the pressure switch to the motor is usually the...

Yours is the typical failure mode for a submersible pump. First the regular cycling causes the tank bladder to fail. Then with a failed bladder the pump cycles it self to death, which is where the fibers are coming from. It is usually a brand preference that causes the pump to wear out before...

Then use the CSV1A with any size tank that gives you a warm and fuzzy feeling. The CSV will still eliminate the cycling problem and deliver strong constant pressure no matter what size tank you want to use. But like was explained, you are much more likely to have water after a power outage by...

Maybe I can say this a different way. after that type pump runs dry, the pump doesn't need to be primed, the can needs to be flooded. There are places in the top of the can that trap air and make it hard to flood until there is some kind of flow, which can't happen until the pump is drawing...

Need to check the voltage. Sounds like it is trying to start on low voltage. However, the tank is waterlogged and it could have cycled the pump to death in just a few hours of cycling on and off quickly.

Like they say, "Man plans and God laughs". It may not be you, but someone will probably turn off the faucets and forget to turn off the pump. It only takes one time to destroy the pump. At least put a 75 PSI pressure relief valve in the system if you don't make it where it can automatically...

Could also just put the submersible in the cistern as those cans are expensive.

Oh OK...a submersible in a can type pump. Very familiar with those. There are places in the can that trap air and need flow through before it will prime the pump. Best to not let it run dry. Adding the pump down float switch to shut it off before it sucks air would be a good idea. May also...

Won't hurt anything. You can also pull a ground or neutral at the pressure switch with one hot wire and have 115V.

I don't normally use them on injection pumps. But I would think you just wire it to the hot wire from the pressure switch. It will need a good ground and probably an enclosure. You can power a circuit breaker with surge protector in an enclosure with wires from the pressure switch. Then wire...

Do you have a low level cut off float switch in the storage tank? What kind of booster pump is it?

That is probably about right for a brand name pump. There are lots of pumps available these days. Here is one for 150 bucks...

If you just want to run some hoses you only need a small pump like a J7S or J10S and a PK1A kit to keep it from cycling while running hoses.

sorry, but you bough the only pump I know of that says, "not made for continuous duty". That means it is a very lightweight pump, made to not last very long, even with very light duty. Yo are trying to irrigate with a pump made to barely fill a dog water bowl. To irrigate you will need a pump...