Recent content by Sethamin

There's no plywood underneath the marble. Perhaps that's because it has an undermount sink which sits in a "bracket" that's attached the cabinet base.

The countertop is marble, so I probably could "recess" the mounting by countersinking the underside of the faucet hole with my dremel. But I'd have to notch at least 1/2" out, and the countertop is already installed so it'd be awkward. And I'd have to do that for 3 separate holes. That doesn't...

We bought a widespread faucet for our new bathroom vanity - unfortunately, the max deck thickness is a 1-5/8", and the countertop is 2" thick. I called the retailer but there's no deck extension kit for this faucet. Is there a deck extension kit from another manufacturer that would work here...

If you were running copper, I'd suggest that maybe some flux or bits of solder got into the toilet fill valve and blocked it up. That's not likely since you're running PEX, but maybe some other type of sediment or debris got into your line while you were working on it. I'd try cleaning out the...

So I'm redoing my bathroom, and I roughed in the new toilet drain about 1" above the subfloor, figuring that the concrete backer board + thinset bed + tile would put the finished floor just level with the drain. Unfortunately, I didn't account for the fact that the floor was significantly out of...

You could also use a left-right fitting, where the threads are reversed on one side, but I think those are more typically used in gas lines where unions are not allowed.

I'm roughing in a pot filler, and I'd like the ability to put a water filter on it. My first thought was to rough in two 1/2" stubs in the cabinet above the range - one will be the "input" side that connects to main water supply line, and the other the "output" side that connects to the pot...

Sounds like you're describing a reducing wye with a street connection. I've personally never seen one, but a cursory Google search shows that they do exist, and are known as "street wyes" (feel free to insert your own pun here)...

Take off the shield and slide it onto the existing pipe, then put the coupling on the new pipe and roll it back. Do that for both sides, put in your new piece of pipe, pop the rubber onto the existing pipe, slide the shields onto the gaskets, and tighten. See the video at the end of this article...

This particular drain is for the roof of a 2 story extension off the main house (which is 4 stories). But it's part an attached townhouse, so there are neighboring buildings whose windows could be within 3 feet (even at the topmost roof - buildings are all different heights).

UPC 2009 states that all storm drains connected to a sewer line should be trapped: And its definition of "Storm Drain" is: Granted, I take your point that it's basically being vented anyway. But a roof drain does not extend 6 inches above the roof, nor is there any guarantee that it's at...

I am replacing a storm line running to a roof drain, and it currently has no trap and connects directly to my main sewer line (combined sewer and storm lines are very common in my area). As long as I'm replacing it, I figure that I should do it properly and add a trap to it. How soon can the...

Well, I do now. They're pricey. I just have to figure out if it's cheaper to do that rather than running an individual vent for the toilet and tub and tying them back in above.

What about a double fixture fitting for both of them?

I think this is the relevant section of 2009 UPC: This doesn't seem to disallow it, but I still seem to recall reading somewhere the UPC disallows wet venting into vertical drainage. Maybe 2012 UPC has some changes on this? Anyone?