Recent content by Scott McNab

Right now it's $1.05 per liter for oil and I pay $.63 per liter for propane. I have last winters oil numbers so I'll have to compare with this winters propane. Of course a different boiler too. I guess if it's more expensive I'll have to find an experienced hydronic installer to help find a...

It maintains 18 degrees. House isn't insulated great so any warmer would likely get quite expensive. I'm just used to oil so it seems like I'm burning a lot of propane. Seems I'm worse off. Temperature swing doesn't really bother me. It does drop 1 degree as the boiler is burning until the...

What can I do short of replacing the boiler if I don't have enough emitters?

So 20 minute burn, off for 20-30 minutes and repeat cycle is ok? That's with a -20 degree celcius day. Warmer days the idle times are longer. No matter the outdoor temperature, the burn time is always 20 minutes to satisfy thermostat.

As it's a low mass boiler, once the burner is off and circulator running, the water in the system gets cool quite quickly. I actually liked my high mass oil boiler better. Water stayed hot for a long time even when circulating. So far this boiler has been a disappointment.

That's how it works. Only other control is a high limit set at 200 to kill the burner if it gets that hot. The burner heats the 4.5 gallons quickly but once the circulator starts it slows down considerably. High limit would kick the burner off but it has its own differential. Thermostat...

The burns are 20 minutes average. Once the thermostat is satisfied then it doesn't fire for roughly another 20-30 minutes when really cold and the cycle repeats. Yes the L6006C is only controlling the circulator. The home thermostat controls the burner. At first it was set up where the aquastat...

Boiler is Biasi B10 series Model B-4. Gross Input M.B.H 126, Gross Output M.B.H 110. Circulator is Bell and Gossett K20. Aquastat is Honeywell Type L6006C. Burner is LP gas Riello 40 N12OS. 85' feet of Slant Fin 30 baseboard rad.

One thermostat, so single zone.

Yes I'll get you that information tonight. It branches off into different zones but comes back as one. I believe it's considered one zone. What would make it a single zone or multiple zones?

Hopefully it will help with efficiency changing to 145 and 15 differential as opposed to 30 differential. Any bit helps.

Sounds good. Thanks for your help. I'll change the settings when I'm home and we'll see what happens. I may be asking more questions. Thanks again

The masonry chimney has a new aluminum liner. So you think I should start with the circulator to come on at 145 and set the differential to 15? Or would say 160 and differential of 30 be any better? Or wasteful?

Would just be a lot of starting and stopping for the circulator as the cool water in the rads will rush back when the circulator pump turns on and the aquastat would shut it off at 130 until the boiler reaches 145 again. Continuous cycle until the water stays above 130 and the aquastat leaves...

It doesn't cycle the burner during a call for heat. Just gets up to temperature where the thermostat is satisfied and shuts off which must mean the rads are getting rid of the heat quick enough. Water temperatures range from I'd say 140 to 180 when the boiler shuts off, depending on the outside...