Recent content by RBKM

I saw this in a showroom and was surprised at just how exposed the plumbing was in the back--too much for my taste. The picture above doesn't really give a good sense of that.

Toto Carlyle Thanks Terry. I ended up emailing Toto customer service about this and got the following reply: The CEFIONTECT on the Drake #01 is a brand new product. We may eventually have the beige colors with Sana gloss. Carlyle & Vespin are available with CEFIONTECT in #12 Sedona Beige...

Thanks Jim. What I find curious is that nothing in that bathroom was changed (as far as I know). The only difference might be that the 1/2" supply lines coming into that bathroom now come off 3/4" pipes instead of 1/2." Rob

We are in the process of putting in a new master bathroom with a 3'4" by 5'9" shower, to be done all in stone, and will also have a rainshower on a 15" arm and a handshower on a vertical slide bar. But we will also have a regular showerhead on the wall opposite the wall with the handshower...

We are adding a new master bedroom/bathroom. In addition to running new 3/4" pipes to the new bathroom, our plumber upgraded some of our other pipes by replacing our existing 1/2" pipe that led to and from our hot water heater with 3/4" pipe. Since then I've noticed a funny noise in our old...

We're planning on getting the Toto Drake (comfort height + elongated) in Sedona Biege. I was going to try the Sanigloss option but my supplier tells me that the Drake doesn't come with Sanigloss in colors other than white. Does that sound right?

Thanks Gregg, but I decided I don't want anything mechanical in there. So it's either the gravity/density recirc loop or nothing, with the latter most likely. Insulation question: are the pipes running in the floor insulated individually with some sort of sleeve or from the fiberglass...

Thanks for the replies. I am in the Boston area which likely jacks the price up. I was also wondering if insulating the hot water pipe would help, particularly in the basement which would be the coldest part of the house (though it's heated). Is that done?

I didn't realize that flushing out the cold water was what took the time--I figured it was warming up the pipes too, but maybe that's not a factor. It looks like almost a straight run from our water heater to our shower, so let's figure at most 50 ft of 3/4" pipe. That's 600 inches x .44...

So I guess the real question is: was it foolish for the plumber to run all this 3/4" pipe from the HW heater to the shower if the supply coming to the HW heater is only 1/2"? Another question: will I be able to get 6 gallons/min to my rain-type shower head with that stretch of 1/2" pipe in...

Does that mean these two situations would yield the same flow out (for a given pressure head, with flow left to right)?

We are installing a new bathroom and new hot water heater. Our plumber was planning to run a 3/4" line from the new hot water heater up to the shower. He'd also like to run 3/4 to the hot water heater (we currently have 1/2" pipe running to and from our hot water heater). Our supply line...

As I mentioned in a previous thread we are putting in a new bathroom with a nice shower stall that will have two stationary shower heads and one handheld. We had a 40 gallon HW heater and just decided to updrade to a 75 (50 seemed silly and I guess for gas/regular vent unit there is nothing in...

Jimbo, We currently have a 40 gallon WH but our plumber is suggesting that we go to a 75--that was actually going to be a question I left to another thread. I don't think we'd actually use 10 GPM from the HW--probably more like 70% fo that, given mixing, but you're right--a ten minute shower...

Jim, Although the size of the shower pipe might have a small effect on the pressure drop, it doesn't have a big effect on the volume of water delivered, and it's that flow that counts. I just want to know if I'll be standing in a lot of water if I run 6-10 gallons/min. Rob