Recent content by poorplmbr

Just be extra careful when using the "o"ring/compression,or "QS",type fittings from Uponor.....the o-ring can get pinched really easy and if the PEX isn't cut square and fully inserted into the QS fitting you WILL have a leak...take it from experience!!!!

The installation should have had an air eliminator at the top op the systen at the hydro-coils........I like to use these.... The Spirotop® Air Release Valve is essentially the vent head used on all products through 12â€. It has a ½†bottom connection and can be used in places where...

sounds to me like a wiring problem........here's how it should be...from the "R" terminal of your 24 volt transformer,up to the "RH" terminal on your thermostat,from "W" on the t-stat to one of the yellow wires in the zone valve,the other yellow goes to the "C" on the transformer........this...

is the pump installed in a position with the rotor in the verticle position??if so it is in wrong.air can get trapped in the rotor housing........as far as cavity,i think you mean cavitation,this can happen if there is not enough straight piping on both the upstream and the downstream sides of...

You do not need a ZVC...use a SR 504,not a 503....wire the 3 thermostats and circulators to the relay as the instructions show......now in place of the ZVC get a 24volt,40va transformer and wire like this....from the R terminal on the 24 volt side of the transformer go to each R terminal of the...

one word......PEX

the acid will indeed have a reaction with the copper......there should be a neutralizer on the condensate line before the pump,but my concern is more with freezing of the pump discharge line in winter....if that happens the pump will not operate and the pump's sump will overflow causing a...

Remove the trap and look into the outlet side of the u-bend,does it have 2 little protrusions?If it does then the union portion of the trap is 2 pieces,it should be like the spud of a radiator valve.You need to remove this piece,a radiator spud wrench works fine for this but anything you can get...

how about a two hole galvinized pipe strap bolted directly to the wall that the pipe is so close to?

One point here about those flexi connectors.....if you over tighten them you can distort the gasket or even worse cut the gasket on the end of the male threads.I like to use a small amount of thread sealant (I prefer "Pro-Dope") on the male threads ,then tighten hand tight plus a 1/4...

First off I think you mean ball valve not balcock.....secondly if you are going to be soldering in a new valve then get a "slip" coupling (not slide over coupler) as well and just cut the pipe longer than you need for the valve....

have you looked into a combi unit like a Baxi Luna?

you mention 1000 ft with no splice....!!!!!!! you can not run that kind of length.......your maximum run should be no more that 300 feet with 1/2" tubing..otherwise your radiant will NOT work.........hope you have done your homework on proper sizing and layout of your system else we will be...

try using a coupling..... http://www.missionrubber.com/Products/BandSealCouplings.php#BWT ...a T215 should do it