Recent content by Montreal

Thanks Terry for your comments and for your campy photos. Yes, my small, 5 room bungalow has 1/2" copper throughout, including the inlet to the hot water heater. There has never been a problem with the hot water pressure as there is only one bathroom. My thread was all about the challenge...

My installation is now complete and working fine, no leaks. Getting the former brass elbow to unscrew off the factory nipple was trickier then I expected. It was on so tight that the factory nipple came out at the same time. I reinstalled the nipple and this time I used a Watts LF 3008...

My water meter is 25 years younger than yours, only I had nearly 3 feet of 3/4" dia. copper between the basement floor slab and the shutoff valve. Back in 2000, my street shutoff faucet would not close fully so I decided to replace it with a Meuller ball valve. At the time I was told to...

After sucking all the water out of the P-trap with my shopvac (it stayed dry after that), I got out my 1 H.P., 700 cfm workshop dust collecting vacuum and placed the end of its 4" dia. vacuum hose directly over the floor drain flange. The suction would have created so much air flow that the...

Good recommendation, one I will follow if my attempts to retrieve the rubber cone fail.

I don't own one, but I may be able to get my hands on a longer shopvac hose so I can put the hose past the floor drain P-trap and hopefully touch the rubber cone sitting a few feet past it. Thanks

I agree that a first floor bathtub draining should not come out of the basement floor drain. Let's assume that the house is plumbed correctly. I only take showers so my drain system is not used to a full bathtub loading the drain pipes. There may have been a temporary blockage that caused the...

Good day. My basement has a floor drain check valve inserted in a 3" ABS drain pipe/P-trap. I had to temporary remove this valve so that I could drain my hot water heater quickly. I also filled my bathtub upstairs so that I would have a reserve of water while my house supply line was shut off...

Thanks for the history about Giant and A.O. Smith. In Quebec, our winters are so cold that very few attached garages would be heated adequately enough to trust installing a water heater there. Because foundation footings have to be installed below the frost line (4+ feet below grade), it...

Giant, model 172EPS. https://giantinc.com/en/products/water-heater/residential/electric-ecopeak/172eps/ It's the latest technology from a local Canadian company that has been operating since 1945. I've owned 2 of their water heaters and never had a leak, even after 17 years of use. My...

My water heater has 3, not 2, electric elements, with 800 watts for the bottom one, which is activated by its own thermostat. The idea is to keep the bottom of the tank as warm as possible while using a smaller wattage element, but operating it more frequently. This helps reduce the loading on...

Thanks again for your contribution to this discussion and for your encouragement. I don't think it's a question of the threads of the steel nipple having been cut wrong, they weren't cut at all. They were rolled by a pressing device as opposed to having been milled on a lathe. That means that...

Thanks Jeff for your suggested approach. I wish they made a non-dielectric union built exactly like the di-electric version, but all brass, instead of half brass and half steel. I don't need any additional steel, as my tank's steel di-electric nipple already limits the amount of steel exposed...

I didn't like it when I first cranked on the brass elbow with a pipe wrench, and it made a squeeking sound as I went from 1 complete turn to 1-1/2 turns in order to get the elbow pointing up.

Right now the leak rate has changed from one drop an hour to one drop every 2 hours, but that doesn't get me off the hook. More wraps of tape around the nipple will probably allow more turning range following finger tightness. So far I have screwed my brass elbow onto the galvanized...