Recent content by JeffNC

This issue has now come up for me a few times. I'm wondering how long it would take for P traps to dry out when not in use. Of course I know it depends on the air temp, humidity, and air flow. But more in general. Like 2 days, 2 weeks, or 2 months. I'm not sure if it matters the trap size...

Ah, clear caulk. That hadn't occurred to me actually. That might help. But people saying "just wipe off" and "use masking tape" - I don't think have caulked on small mosaic tile before.

Well my issue with that is that the caulk is actually an adhesive, and without it you sometimes have to really crank the toilet bolts down to keep it from slipping, which means you're going to risk cracking it, especially with a mosaic floor that might not be perfectly flat.

Anyone know successful approaches to caulking around the toilet when the floor is a small mosaic like a penny tile? Obvious problem is keeping the caulk from getting into all the little grout joints and looking like a disaster.

The direction of the valve seal does matter. The one in the picture is installed backward. It does not rely on the escutcheon "sealing it". That's not how it works. When you put in the valve seal the correct way, it's hard to notice but there is a slope to the rim. It slopes toward the wall...

Yes understood. Looking back, I don't know why I said they used Rain-R-Shine in the factory - of course I have no way of knowing what they used. I guess after searching what I was finding was that all blue glues seemed to be designed for wet or dry use. So let me rephrase - I don't know why...

Well I can't understand why they would use a product like Rain-R-Shine in dry factory conditions, but I guess they did, so I used what they used (or what I assume they used).

Based on how the jet install went, I believe it was cracked during installation at the factory because it's kind of hard to get it tightened at just the right angle - I think it got overturned. This is what I meant by "hot lava". I still don't understand why you'd use this over Rain-R-Shine...

It's kind of hard to "copy the way it was built" if they don't tell you what cement they used and you don't have any experience with that stuff. So I took a closer look at the hose, and it seems to be a 2 layer design. Basically the outer layer looks like clear reinforced vinyl. The inner...

Oh my gosh. IT'S RESIDUE. THE NIPPLE ON THE JET GOES INSIDE THE FLEX TUBE. THE TUBE DOES NOT GO INTO THE JET. The jet basically looks like this, except there were no barbs on the jet nipple after I removed the tube. Unless the barbs were there originally and got dissolved by the cement...

Well, go back and look at the original photo I posted. There are no barb as I mentioned in post #5, and the PVC stubout of the jet is glued into the inside of the hose. So I'm wondering, is there some kind of PVC lining inside the hose, or does the cement work on that kind of plastic as well...

Or is this blue cement "hot lava" cement or something else?

Sure, but what is the glue? Is it the Rain-R-Shine product, or something else? I'm really not sure what the material is on the inside of the hose I'm attaching to. I know the jet is PVC but what exactly is this glue other than "blue"? I was assuming the Rain-R-Shine cement was actually blue...

No, I'm talking of course about the inner surface of the hose. Read again where I said "inner surface of the flex hose". I'm assuming that PVC cement joins PVC to PVC. is there some sort of PVC lining on the hose, or does the hose material just work with PVC cement?

It turns out I was wrong and because of the routing there was enough slack in the hose to cut it off and still put it back on. There is no barb on the fitting. When you say flex line with a PVC outer coating, do you really mean PVC inner coating? That would make sense. I've seen the...