Recent content by H20Man

By adjustable elbow do you mean metal flexible pipe?

This is only true for the el cheapo tankless heaters. All the good ones adjust their BTU output based on the temp of the incoming water. You can even set the temp of the outgoing water to a specific value. Putting a tankless before a tank is absolutely useless (unless you have a hot water...

The hose between the dryer and the rigid vent connection is going to have to be flexible, right? I don't see how you could connect rigid vent directly to your dryer unless you screwed the dryer to the floor so it can't move. That being said, the shortest length you can use is preferable.

There's nothing wrong with mine. I'm just doing it for preventative reasons like the manual suggests.

What about the pump and hoses? Just rig something up from parts from Lowe's/HomerDepot? Most pumps you see there are like effluent pumps and are quite expensive.... Any suggestions?

Where do you get a 5 gal bucket of vinegar? Sams club or something? What about a good inexpensive pump to use for the flush? Do you just rig out some vinyl hose or whatever to the pump? I don't guess anybody sells a ready-to-go setup do they?

:) Gives me an idea anyway. :)

Yeah, you should have bought a Rinnai. 8 gpm. Also, you're missing the point on the tankless heaters. Yeah, they are more efficient since you don't have to keep a tank hot all the time. But for me, the major benefit is that you NEVER run out of hot water.

Ok, I'll try that. How tight should it be? Hand tight? Light wrench pressure? Medium wrench pressure?

In this case, I'm trying to put a copper 3/4" male threaded adapter into one of the "isolator valves" made by webstone for tankless water heaters. http://www.webstonevalves.com/isolatorexp.html It's a pain because there's no way to tighten it any extra after everthing is assembled because the...

I've never had good success when connecting brass fittings together using pipe thread compound (rectorseal Tplus2 if it matters). I thoroughly coat both the male and female threads, then tighten them down. I still get water leaking (very slowly). What's the trick? Should you only tighten it...

In order to meet code for a p-trap, how long can the horizontal run be after the trap before entering the waste/vent stack? Can there be any slope downwards in the horizontal run at all between the trap and the waste/vent stack? Thanks