Recent content by Estrogen Hostage

For a small house with 3/4” feed than I would use 3/4” trunk lines and switch to 1/2” at each individual appliance. Alternately, your house would be well suited to a manifold system, with a half inch pipe to each appliance. This has the advantage of having no fittings in the wall. Fittings with...

It’s possible that your dip tube on the inlet is broken, or the pipes are connected backwards. The inlet of the water heater should deliver water near the bottom, and when it’;s heated it rises to the top. The dip tube is a plastic tube about 1/2 the height of the water heater that delivers the...

Fair point...I hadn't considered that. I'm thinking a timer to prevent the motor restarting for say 30-60 seconds would be a better way to accomplish that. This would have the benefit of giving the occupants of the house time to adjust their consumption while managing their frustration with the...

Fair enough - I hadn't considered that. I suppose I could install the existing pressure tank before the pump to COMPLETELY eliminate the risk of creating a problem upstream every time the pump shuts on. Here is the pump curve for the pump I already have. Clearly it's too big for the meter and I...

Based on my understanding, it's still drawing full volume when it first comes on. Your valve will help but not solve my problem, IMHO.

I don’t have any good way to open up the flow in a single location where I could measure how many GPM. By opening up several shower valves in the house I was able to get a flow of six gallons per minute at 35 psi coming in. I have the idea that if I could open up the flow at a single valve it...

I’ll be honest. I haven’t spent a great deal of time specifying components. I already own the pump and would prefer to use it if possible but I’m not hung up on it. I very strongly like the idea of using a pressurized tank that is a sealed system instead of a plastic tank with a float switch...

Right, but I don’t need pressure. That’s what the pump is for. The tank is to provide volume. The comment about a water heater was made in regards to installing a new one. I know that unless I have a valve on the tank will fill most of the way with water and have a little air at the top.

conceptually this makes sense to me if the drawdown is from 30 to 50 psi because you can essentially empty the tank and still have the 30 psi precharge present. To me it seems that a pressurized air over water tank would have much greater capacity at a lower cost. Plus I have been told that...

So I guess this is the point that I’m getting stuck on. I know from experience filling up hot water heaters and such that if I take ian unpressurized tank and begin filling it with water that The air will pressurize and the tank will fill a good amount of the way with water. I know it’s not 100%...

I have a large house in the country with six bathrooms, and irrigation system, and eight of us living here. I have a city water connection that has a small meter. I have acceptable static water pressure but once I begin drawing higher demand the pressure drops to an unacceptable level. I have...

No, I can't get 1 gpm from the deep well. It started off at 2gpm but tapered off to less than 1/2 gpm. I am relatively sure I can get that from my existing well though.

The guy that came out was a dowser too. The problem is the geography of the area I'm in. I'm up on a hill at the edge of a large ancient lake filled with sandstone. That's a huge aquifer. Where we drilled we found a few feet of sandstone but it was all shale starting at 2' from the surface. Am I...

Well, the well driller just left. 280' and no water. It was all shale and almost no sandstone we were looking for. Rural water is still 20k.

The description sounds a lot more like this model: http://deeprock.com/HD/frmM60.aspx