Recent content by DaveHo

I ripped out of whole house full of the stuff & re-piped with Uponor. Upper left, first pic is definitely poly b. The toilet supply line color is washed out in the pic, but looks like poly to me.

What a hack job on that wall. I also notice you have polybutylene supply lines. You'd be wise to remove as much of that stuff as possible while the wall is open.

I have a Zoller N53(no built in switch) & an SJE Rhombus vertical switch going on ten years now. My pit always has enough water to cover the pump, but it only runs during heavy rains. Still going strong, but to be safe I have plans to replace both soon. Will be using the same equipment when I do.

What's wrong with sticking with the pex you've already run? You want less connections, that's the ticket.

I use a tool like this. It's more compact than the sharkbite tool. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Imperial-3-16-in-to-1-1-2-in-O-D-Tubing-Reamer-Deburring-Tool-208F/301044486

Water doesn't flow uphill. There will still be water in the faucet above the supply line.

If you have room, build out the wall so the clean out is inside the wall cavity. Add one of those plastic access panels to get to it.

What about adding a second clean-out above the existing one pointed 180 degrees the other way? Cover over the existing one. Seems you have room on the other side of the wall. Does that meet code?

Terry, Which PRV do you tend to use for residential use? Thinking of putting one in as my pressure is around 85psi. Hoping to eliminate some water hammer from the washing machine valves. Already have arrestors on the back of the washer, but they are having minimal effect.

Do you have any tools which use the Milwaukee M12 battery system? If so, since you are already spending almost a $100 on the cutter you linked, pick up a Milwaukee 2470-21 PVC shear. They can be had for about $130 if you shop around. It rocks.

Inside diameter is smaller & can cause enough back pressure to force water out the shower head when using the tub spout.

Propane tanks are buried all the time around here. Not sure what Cali regulations are.

Looks like someone smeared that stuff on to "fix" a leaking joint. It's hard to tell, are there connections where the tar is? While doing some remodeling, I came across a joint someone had smeared with duct sealing mastic. It was on a horizontal section & showed no signs of leaking so I left...

I've had several Sharkbite fittings in use for close to 10 years. I use them to transition from copper to PEX at the water heater. Never an issue. How many fittings? What's the cost difference? Since I've used Sharkbites & they are the original push fittings, I say go with them. I'm sure...

It's going to heat up no matter what you do, but you can slow it by insulating the pipe & placing it under the attic insulation.