Recent content by Chucky_ott

I think the repair plate that you suggest might be the best option. If I wanted to do it by filling the gap, the only thing I can think of is epoxy and a thickening agent instead of concrete. But epoxy would be an expensive fix. I have a gallon on hand so it would be something I'd consider.

Got it! I re-read post #10 and now understand his dilemma. Can't think of a solution now but filling the gap with concrete probably would not be the best solution. I think any similar product with low tensile strength would likely crack.

I'm confused. If you removed the red vinyl, foam, thinset, and whatever else was in there, do you now have a 1/2" space around the entire ABS pipe? If so, wouldn't you use a regular flange that you glue with ABS solvent?

Confirm that your plans don't show that 4'-3" to the centre of the 2x6 stud wall. That could account for the 2.5" (actually 2.75") discrepancy. Or maybe he just screwed up.

Is your jet pump primed?

Well, it needs to be ground down because it will look like a smiley face. And if you try to plug an item in the dark, you don't have to guess how to orient your plug. Just sayin'

Is that white pipe painted ABS? Looks like someone spray painted the inside of the cabinet and the pipe. If it is ABS, I'd clean the end and then use an ABS trap. It probably won't fix your problem but it will make it neater.

i think his assembly will actually shift a bit to the right by a few inches. I'm assuming the hole in the sill is the center of the toilet. That said, I don't know if you can fit the wye and elbow inside the joist space without drilling a hole large enough for the wye's hub. That might be a...

Are you sure that the 2x4 wall is load-bearing ? It could be just a wall over which the joists span. Maybe it's just a wall for an interior partition on the lower floor (e.g. a closet or bathroom). I would have expected a break in the joists above a load-bearing wall. But that may not...

Yeah, put a bucket under the AAV if you remove it to test

And to rule out the garburator, remove the p-trap and put a bucket in its place. See if sink drains properly.

To rule out the AAV, remove it and see if the sink drains properly

I guess checking the floor level with a proper level would be in order. A 1" drop over 24" should be quite noticeable. If the floor is level, the flange being too high makes sense. And with bolts on one end of the toilet, it's easy to see how the other end would raise as the bolts are...

The correct thing to do is level the floor but if that's out of the question, it will be difficult to find a solution that will look nice. If I were to try something, it might be epoxy mixed in with a thickening agent. Colloidal silica is white and you would end up with a matte white joint...

Could the rats have come in from the sewer and chewed their way out?