Recent content by BAPlumber

using this method wastes a lot of paper towels. my uniform service provides rags that are re-usable and don't diminish the rain forests.

1/4" per foot is a minimum grade. run it all straight down vertically if you want.

I don't know the layout of your house but, you should have a shut off valve on your water heater. shutting this off should stop the flow of hot water through your problem valves and allow work to be done.

where is the Lav? where are you going to wash your hands?

did these fixtures leak water before? If not, debris may have gotten stuck in the valve and is allowing constant flow from the water heater. is this bathroom located adjacent to the heater? Kitchen or laundry affected?

twenty bucks cash usually will do the trick.

wouldn't any solution be just as easy? Shutting off the ball valve, cutting the copper, unscrewing fitting from the valve, screwing in new copper mip adapter and pipe? Shutting off city line/meter, cutting copper, sweating on new ball valve, sweating on new 3/4" tubing? of the valves...

why would this guy come to this site if he had so little respect for Plumbers? this irritates me so much I can't write rationally now.

Sure. What state and code are you governed by? Every state has differant codes and amendments to that code. Plus additional laws on who can touch the plumbing period.

sounds like you need a longer tail piece. all tubing and sockets should bottom out without stress on the system. I used duct tape on gas pipe the other day, seemed to keep the dirt out.

this argument is crazy since most faucets have smaller inlets or outlets(volume controlled). it does not matter that pex is "restrictive". system should be designed appropriatly.

that rig will probably be fine for you.

replace both the upper and lower thermostats. that should solve the problem.

yes,yes.........