Recent content by ArayT

Agree w Mr Young. I had this issue on a house years ago and after I added a short piece of PVC between the water heater and mains the issue stopped. I still have the house (rental) and no problems in 15 plus years. rt

I did not check it for that reason. I'm on a well and had it checked several years prior and nothing was flagged as being an issue except the water was considered a little hard.

I haven't had anymore leaks. I repaired those referenced earlier and keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't happen again. I recommend taking pictures of all the work you've accomplished just in case a lawsuit is eventually filed. Good luck!

A man and his buddies are playing golf, he ask do yall have the same issue, my wife never wants sex anymore. They all respond you need to go see the Witch Dr., he can fix you up yep the Witch Dr. has what you need. He takes a trip tells the Dr. the problem Dr. replies I have just what you...

An eighteen year old unit with issues should be replaced. The cost of the repair and then if you have another issue its money down the drain. I would get three prices on the replacement from reputable companies and make sure you compare apples to apples. The higher the EER rating does have a...

As others said it should drain in the off position but should not leak. The warning about installing a hand-shower is because it will not allow the trapped water to drain, like placing your finger over the end of a straw.

Really based on preference. 1/4" gap is doable w caulk but recommend filling the void w backer material prior to installing. There are several types of trim available that can be used but again based on personal preference.

When you checked for power what was it? Power to your tstat comes from a transformer located normally in the air-handler. Make sure ALL your connections are tight. Loose connections can cause multiple problems.

Make sure the smaller unit is sufficient. Higher efficiency does not mean more cooling.

That's a common problem with this type layout (assuming there's no or very limited attic space). Normally the problem is the limited space to install ceiling insulation between the 2x6 rafters vs the knee wall. 8" return and the transfer duct should be sufficient. Make sure the flex is pulled...

All, I appreciate the replies. Guess its time to make decisions. Thanks Ray

As others have said, would not recommend it. Heat pump provides heat in two ways, what it captures outside and heat of compression. With what you have available outside, that just isn't enough.

Would look at clearance requirements for referenced tank/s, if that's ok then not a problem.

Agree with fitter30, move it. Doors don't need much undercut to be effective.

If the info you have gives the sensible cooling, i.e. 48,000 btus, the remaining btus is latent (12,000). 12+48=60k btus or 5ton. 80% sensible 20% latent. The higher the latent capacity the better it is at removing moisture.