Need Design Advice with yard hydrant

[michnels]

Hello,

I am looking to use a water line that is located outside my barn. I was hoping to get some advice on how to best approach it.

This is the current line available. It is about 2ft away from the barn

I am looking to do the following:

- Leave a spigot available where the current line is
- Run a water line to a finished room within the barn
- Put another outdoor spigot on the opposite side of the barn

Thus far I have been thinking:

- Run 3/4" PEX up the side of the barn into the attic and attach an elbow
- Run 3/4" PEX from the elbow to a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" barb tee (for water line going in finished room)
- Run 3/4" PEX from barb tee to elbow
- Run 3/4" PEX from elbow down other side of barn for new spigot

I will put the PEX into sleeves and box in the line on the outside of the barn for insulation and protection from sunlight.

What I am not sure about is the connection to the current spigot (pictured). Any advice on how to accomplish the connection to PEX?

Thanks! -Mike

 

[hj]

The simple answer is that you CANNOT connect to that yard hydrant. You have to dig down to its connection to the water line and disconnect it so you can attach your new pipe and run it into the building. As far as HOW you run the piping, you can do it anyway you think it will work.

 

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[michnels]

The simple answer is that you CANNOT connect to that yard hydrant. You have to dig down to its connection to the water line and disconnect it so you can attach your new pipe and run it into the building. As far as HOW you run the piping, you can do it anyway you think it will work.

Thank you for the quick response. Can you elaborate a little more as to why I cannot connect to that yard hydrant (thanks for teaching me the term)? I am going to have to break up the cement pad that is poured. Before I did that I wanted to double check.

 

[michnels]

Thank you for the quick response. Can you elaborate a little more as to why I cannot connect to that yard hydrant (thanks for teaching me the term)? I am going to have to break up the cement pad that is poured. Before I did that I wanted to double check.

I did a little more reading and may have answered my own question - it is one piece (hydrant plus pipe). I have a slight drip from the hydrant and it is not frost proof so replacing it makes since no matter what. I just hope it is only a couple of feet down.

 

[Terry]

What you have is a frost free yard hydrant. The lever at the top opens and closes the seal at the very bottom of the standpipe.

In Washington State, in the Seattle area, we need to bury the bottom two feet to prevent freezing.

 

[michnels]

Thanks everyone. Much appreciated. Any idea on why there may be a cement slab on top (pictured above)? Before I attempted to break it up I thought I would ask. Also - I cannot find a cutoff for this water line. I looked everywhere under the house etc. House was built in 88. Do you think it was ran without a cutoff or am I just not seeing it? House and Barn were built at the same time.

 

[Jadnashua]

YOu may have to turn the house water off if it does not have an individual shutoff to that hydrant. It's probably not buried, since they poured a slab over it, so first place I'd look is where the line leaves the house.

 

[hj]

quote; 88. Do you think it was ran without a cutoff or am I just not seeing it?

Most likely there is none, because, since it is frostproof, it would not have to be shut off in the wintertime.

 

[Reach4]

Any idea on why there may be a cement slab on top (pictured above)? Before I attempted to break it up I thought I would ask.

I expect that it was mainly to provide a clean place to stand rather than a muddy place. The concrete does add extra support to the hydrant.

 

[Terry]

Normally a grounding rod for an electric panel is in damp earth, and has a wire connected to the grounding bar of the box.

No need for a shutoff here, as it's a frost proof.

Normally for support, I attach these to a post, but concrete would work too.

 

[michnels]

Thank You!!!