pumptec problem

Users who are viewing this thread

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
To me, that rotary switche is used in an auto reset function if the unit trips on overload, to allow th emotor to cool for x amount of minutes, currently set (hard to see in photo) at 2,=45 minutes.Auto reset is not necesarily a good thing, especially if there is a constant problem, which there seems to be. The corrosion may be as you said from mineral deposits from the water, or as Don says, from leaked caps.
 

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
I found the reference post under the topic"I found a used Pumptec..." heres the reference:
Originally Posted by Timbuktu
While the pump was running I could hear off and on the caps making a crackling type noise,oh maybe 3 or 4 times at the beginning of the pump runing. Nothing visible though. Whats that tell you?
"Crakling" could be the start relay points. Just as likely to be the problem as the caps themselves. Will it stay running with the 2 HP box?

And yeah, nothing else matter until you fix that bad connection!! (added I fixed that after this post)


Dunno if the caps are good or not anymore. i recall one time during last week deal that I mentioned i heard a crackling noise coming from that area when it was pumping water,and i forget without reviewing the post what the members said it could be.
That looks like what happens when a Cap blows.

And no I didnt touch that screw.

Are all of the Caps in that box good ?


I would say, Maybe not.


Do not turn the screws, or did you already ?
 
Last edited:

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
yes,thanks.

To me, that rotary switche is used in an auto reset function if the unit trips on overload, to allow th emotor to cool for x amount of minutes, currently set (hard to see in photo) at 2,=45 minutes.Auto reset is not necesarily a good thing, especially if there is a constant problem, which there seems to be. The corrosion may be as you said from mineral deposits from the water, or as Don says, from leaked caps.
 

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
What is a resettable protector and wheres it located?

That sounds like the Resettable Protector may be bad.

Check the voltage across the Protector when the pump should be / is running, to make sure it is 0 VAC. (Closed contact)

It sounds like you have some resistance in the circuit, somewhere.

Seeing that Hot Melted connection, and just letting it go for months, Was a Big Error on your part. Sorry, I speak the Truth Most of the time. lol


Be careful playing with electricity.
 

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
What is a resettable protector and wheres it located?
do you have this info already?


http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/M1311_60_Hz_AIM_Catalog.pdf
http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/225468101 R.5 Pumptec Manual 7-12 WEB.pdf

I think if you do not, you should review thes 2 documents, as they have TONS of info, some of which **may** be of great value to you.

Google is your friend. bing wants to be your best friend. I have to try Bing next time
 
Last edited:

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
tHE WELL MAN WAS OUT AND RETURNED WITH A VERDICT ! AND COSTS

ITS THE PUMP !
Ok the well man was out. He said the pump is drawing 45 amps. He unboxed a new control box just to be sure and it tripped off . With that he says its the pump .

Here's the list As i recall they were all goulds.
My current bad pump is a gould 10LS15 15 OR 16 GPM 1,5 HP
here are my choices:
1- 5gpm 1/2hp for $988+ control box labor and installation $2025
2- 7gpm 1/2 hp $740 thought it could become overworked?
3- 7gpm 3/4 hp for $ 906 + control box ,labor and installation $800
4- 5 gpm 1/2hp & 110 volt Thought it may not be able to hOld siphon?? CONTROL BOX AND PULL PUMP $1643

Warranty on product is 5yr and 1st year installation $800 no cost. Great1 I know it should last a year at least
IT WAS HARD TO DECIDE. First I changed my mind back and forth numerous times. the big weinner is #5 i started with themost expensive and went through each one and said " for once Ill get the cheap one' Will I be sorry?

heres my well:
410 deep
motor at 298 ft
static depth 140

Dont know the significance of those stats,but you probably will.

What do you think about the choices i WAS GIVEN
 
Last edited:

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
Pump died & list of replacements

5.30 PUMP W/ 45 amps & List of pump choices: Well man was out. He said the pump is drawing 45 amps. He unboxed a new control box just to be sure and it tripped off . With that he says its the pump .

Here's the list As i recall they were all goulds.
My current bad pump is a gould 10LS15
here are my choices:
1- 5gpm 1/2hp for $988+ control box labor and installation $2025
2- 7gpm 1/2 hp $740 thought it could become overworked?
3- 7gpm 3/4 hp for $ 906 + control box ,labor and installation $800
i FORGOT TO ASK THIS MAKE
4- 5 gpm 1/2hp & 110 volt Thought it may not be able to hOld siphon?? price includes CONTROL BOX AND LABOR $1643

Warranty on product is 5yr and 1st year installation $800 no cost. Great1 I know it should last a year at least
IT WAS HARD TO DECIDE. First I changed my mind back and forth numerous times. the big weinner is #5 i started with themost expensive and went through each one and said " for once Ill get the cheap one' Will I be sorry?

heres my well:
410 deep
motor at 298 ft
static depth 140

Dont know the significance of those stats,but you probably will.

What do you think about the choices and my pick # 5 ? Its a crap shoot with my lack of knowledge.
 
Last edited:

DonL

Jack of all trades Master of one
Messages
5,205
Reaction score
72
Points
48
Location
Houston, TX
I would go with a 240 VAC pump, To minimize voltage drop.

The 3/4 looks like it may be the way to go, from the choices you listed.

Did you get any Model numbers ?

Would they be replacing the wire to the pump also ?

Are these 45 amps 120 Volt or 240 Volt AC or DC ?

LOL

Good Luck.
 
Last edited:

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
The pump I ordered yesterday and some specs

I had no time to wait for further suggestions from this forum in choosing a pump and had to commit to one yesterday so they are putting in the pump now. Its a Gould 1/2 hp 230volt 5 gpm. Dont know the model # now. The decision was to this size pump since i have 2200 gal storage tank it supplies.
My well is a low producer. It varies from 1/2 to 1 gpm. the well will produce about 1450 gal per day and thats more than I use.
They are adding a safety in the control box so we can be certain the pump will be able to maintain suction. What that means isnt terribly clear to me,but yall should know.

Depth 410 ft,pump at 298 ft 140 ft static level
 
Last edited:

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
They are adding a safety in the control box so we can be certain the pump will be able to maintain suction. What that means isnt terribly clear to be,but yall should know.

That size pump should work fine. That pumptec IS a "control to be able to maintain suction", but I think a Cycle Sensor works better.
 

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
The new Gould stats & the mistake wiring up to the jet

The well man accidentally wired the jet pump to 220 and when it kicked on it was grinding loud and only ran 20 sec or so( Its suppose to rum 3.5 minutes. He did this a half dozen times trying to figure why it was acting that way. I told him it ran fine before the work was started. of course hes thinkin "Oh sure it was" he said "Did you ever let the jet suck air running the tank water too low? I told him the jet wont run when the water level get somewhere just above the water pickup in the tank. So no.
He proceeded to connect 110 to the jet instead and it worked fine...he said.
So my question now is " damage?..I'm thinking it took some life out of it?
Here is the pump stats:
Gould
5sbo5
412cl
1/2 hp 1/60/230
3w 12 stg 4" sub

So whats the good and or bad if any?
 
Last edited:

TVL

Member
Messages
288
Reaction score
4
Points
18
Location
South Carolina
Timbuktu,

I have been following this post with interest .................. but I am now confused:

Above you stated the well man attempted to connect 220 volts to the new pump and it made a grinding noise. He then connected 110 volts and it ran fine.

In your stats you list the pump as a 1/2 HP, single phase, 60 hertz AND 220 volts. If this is the case, the pump should be running on 220 volts?????
 

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
accidentally wired the jet pump to 220 (my original quote above)

When he installed the well pump and was connecting the jet pump(house pressure).he connected the 220 to it instead of the 110.
For some reason he ASSUMED the jet was 220 when it was 110.
And this guy has been working years on pumps daily.
i guess we can all do dumb things all the time,but with experience in electricity,I would think that would be one of the main checks you do before hooking them up.
The other thing is he asks ME to turn the main power on or off when he started working on it. i wouldnt trust anyone else in the beginning that the correct one was being turned off. i assume he checked it with a meter befor touching it? I doubt it.
Thats how you stay alive and not frying electrical equipment. You double check it YOUrSELF.

Its now 0900 the next day and its working fine so far.
Its got a different box on it now. Ill get into that on a later post. I was busy doing other unrelated stufff while he worked on the pumpand I forgot to ask him how the replacement control box (only one) works and if i can make adjustments etc.
Ill post later.
 
Last edited:

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
accidentally wired the jet pump to 220
I think you better get him to either give you aan extended warranty in writing to cover that pump motor and labor or have him put another in right now. I would prefer the latter if it were me. Starting and running it at double rated voltage multiple times certainly did it no GOOD. Ask him; its your money!
 

DonL

Jack of all trades Master of one
Messages
5,205
Reaction score
72
Points
48
Location
Houston, TX
accidentally wired the jet pump to 220


Some People just should not be playing with electricity.

That guy must have a brown ring around his neck.

Did you have to help him to get his head out of his ass ?


Sounds like you have water.


Enjoy.
 

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
Some People just should not be playing with electricity.

That guy must have a brown ring around his neck.

Did you have to help him to get his head out of his ass ?


Sounds like you have water.


Enjoy.
Don, you really have a way with words;)
 

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
Finding the best thing to propose to the well company for the possible jet damage

thanks BobL

DonLs recommendation is an exellent idea,but before I act on this, Id like to open this up to other suggestions.
Some variations of DonL's idea if there are any.
Here's my reasoning:
The well used up all my cash and credit available to me. With that ,maybe i should ask for a refund in cash for the amount of a prorated value of the jet pump plus labor charges to install a new one?
Im mean thats just one possibility,and with input from members maybe I can get more options to consider,especially if he rejects the offer I use ,that Donl suggested.


I think you better get him to either give you aan extended warranty in writing to cover that pump motor and labor or have him put another in right now. I would prefer the latter if it were me. Starting and running it at double rated voltage multiple times certainly did it no GOOD. Ask him; its your money!
 

Timbuktu

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
PalmSprings SCal
i decided to look at the jet pump and its a Gould J55 1/2hp 115/230
Just for clarification:
Doesnt this mean its either a 115 or a 230?. Why would a 220 over heat and cause the jet to grind?
i suppose unit will run either,but first the installer mus configure the wiring to get on or the other and that is what he didnt do?
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
WHen a pump is labeled that way, you can adjust the wiring to run it at either 115 or 230 - depending on the pump, it is done by either flipping a switch, moving jumpers, or connecting the power leads properly. So, to figure out what it is actually configured to run on would require looking at it and the associated wiring. Running it improperly configured will ruin it, maybe quickly. Also, keep in mind that if configured for 115vac rather than 230vac, you'd need larger supply wires and a bigger CB.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks