Will this bathroom work? Please see sketches.

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samm1998

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I've got an 2 story house that was built in the late 1960s. I am trying to redo the master bath. I have attached a general layout of the the master bath as well as a rough plumbing sketch. The existing wet wall currently feeds both upstairs bathrooms. It is all cast iron piping. the floor is 2X8 construction so i don't have much room to work with. The main level bathroom does not share a vent stack with the upper level. My bigger concern is the drains for the tub and shower. They are quite long runs. I am planning on tying into the existing cast iron and I may remove a fair amount of the horizontal run. I believe the cast iron is lead soldered together? what is the best way to remove? The floor joists run from left to right on the general layout sketch. That is the main reason I am planning on running parallel to the existing and tying in on the vertical section below. This is a great site with tons of information. Thanks for the feedback.
 

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Tom Sawyer

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How do you expect anyone to make sense of that sketch? From what I can decipher though the short answer is no.
 

samm1998

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Sorry for the sketch, I know It is very busy, I tried to put as much info as possible. Probably too much. By looking at the layout sketch you can see the location of the existing drain and vent stack. I'm just having a tough time figuring out the best way to tie into that. The runs are fairly long and with the joists running left to right, I don't really want to put a lot of 2 1/2" in holes in 2x8s. The vents I plan ont tying together in the attic. From the layout provided, can anyone give a general layout idea? Thanks again for any input.
 

hj

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That is NOT a good first DIY project. Even a professional plumber, at the house, may have a bit of a challenge to fit it in. You are missing some important vents, and with 2x8 joists you will NEVER fit the toilets onto "Y"s or even combos.
 

samm1998

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Thanks for the input, I know that I am in over my head on this one. I have the time to make sure its right, but I don't have the money to just bring a professional in. I have added several pics in an album under my profile that shows the current bathroom and possible modifications. I'm sure I'm missing a lot of vents and such, but the sketch got so busy I ran out of room. I'm not sure I understand why the toilet can't be moved? I was planning on installing it in basically the same manner as it originally was (please see pics). I have the capability to add into a 3d cad package that should improve my sketches. The hand drawn was just an initial poor attempt to get the overal design across. IF I can move the toilet will I need to add a dedicated vent? Thanks.
 

Gary Swart

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Suggest you refigure your budget and hire a plumber. It will almost certainly save you money in the long run as what you will likely end up with DIY will not work, will not pass inspection, and have to be torn out and redone. There are many things that DIY can do with a bit of advice, but there are things that have so many pitfalls, it just has to be done by a professional on site.
 

MikePlummer

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Suggest you refigure your budget and hire a plumber. It will almost certainly save you money in the long run as what you will likely end up with DIY will not work, will not pass inspection, and have to be torn out and redone. There are many things that DIY can do with a bit of advice, but there are things that have so many pitfalls, it just has to be done by a professional on site.

x2.........
 

hj

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Wouldn't that be X3, since that was my original suggestion? Just pretend you need a root canal. IF you did you would find the money for it, so just find that money and spend it on a plumber. You have to understand that the way the plumbing was originally installed applied to THAT bathroom. As soon as you start adding to it you change the dynamics and it requires a completely different design, which often does NOT include the original piping.
 
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Tom Sawyer

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I'll go 4


The whole problem there is fitting everything in and maintaining proper pitch as well as proper grade on the tub/shower vent(s)

It really is one of those jobs where you have to be there and place some fittings to know what will and won't work.
 
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