Kitchen backsplash and trim

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agh2112

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I am about to install a backsplash using marble & glass mosaic strips, mapei Type1 mastic and some Schluter aluminum edging strip to hide the exposed parts of the outside permiter of the tile.

My tile is 5/16" thick and I bought a 3/8" depth edging strip. I do not want the edging strip to be higher than the tile surface in the finished job. Since I am applying the mastic with a 1/8" trowel, then I guess the mastic will squeeze down to 1/16" after I put on the tiles?

What do people think? Should I move up to a 3/16" trowel? I just don't know how thick the mastic will be after it's been squished down and has set.

On the other hand, I could buy a 5/16" edging strip and then I would know for sure that the tile will stick out past the strip. But if I can make a perfect job with the 3/8" strip then that is the better solution.

It's all a matter of knowing how much thickness the mastic will contribute.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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I am about to install a backsplash using marble & glass mosaic strips, mapei Type1 mastic and some Schluter aluminum edging strip to hide the exposed parts of the outside permiter of the tile.

My tile is 5/16" thick and I bought a 3/8" depth edging strip. I do not want the edging strip to be higher than the tile surface in the finished job. Since I am applying the mastic with a 1/8" trowel, then I guess the mastic will squeeze down to 1/16" after I put on the tiles?

What do people think? Should I move up to a 3/16" trowel? I just don't know how thick the mastic will be after it's been squished down and has set.

On the other hand, I could buy a 5/16" edging strip and then I would know for sure that the tile will stick out past the strip. But if I can make a perfect job with the 3/8" strip then that is the better solution.

It's all a matter of knowing how much thickness the mastic will contribute.

You are asking for a whole lot of pain going with a larger trowel and mastic. You should just replace the Schluter strip with a 5/16" version the same as your tile. Trying to build up the wall is going to be a real pain if you do not. If your dead fast on using this approach first set the Schluter profile and then build out the back wall with some thin set.

Is the drywall painted? Primed? What size are the tiles?

Is the glass tile clear tile? Is it semi clear?

The TCNA specifies that the glass tile manufacture specify the setting material for glass tile installations. Since your install is not in a wet zone you should be OK but if you have a primed wall and glass tile the mastic may never dry behind the glass and you might develop "ghosting" or mold closer to the stove.

A product like Laticrete's 254R is an excellent thinset for both glass and marble and sets very quick. I would use something like this instead and a very small notched trowel to set the pieces. When installing glass tile often the thin-set can be seen through the glass. You need to press these tiles firmly into the setting material to ensure full coverage on the back or you can see the voids and often the trowel lines if poorly set.

Hope this helps.

JW
 

Jadnashua

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My neighbor is going through a similar thing...they sold him mastic and I had it return it for Latticrete's Glass and Mosaic Adhesive (it's a thinset). Lowes sells it in smaller quantities in an oversized milk carton type box, the same as their grout. Cost the same as the mastic, and if you read that mastic's description, it specifically only calls out ceramic type tiles, and then has some pretty critical max sizing restrictions that may apply to you as well. IOW, that mastic may not be an approved material for your glass tile.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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My Kitchen Backsplash and Trim

Here is a look at my kitchen backsplash and trim. We used an Italian 4"x4" tile for the backsplash and for the trim an Italian Black marble we cut into strips. For and accent on the backsplash in the niche we installed some glass tiles and a glass shelf. Just for fun I side lit the glass shelf with a few LED's. Love the look and my wife is thrilled.

The setting material was Laticrete 254R and the grout was Quartz Lock2.
 
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agh2112

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You are asking for a whole lot of pain going with a larger trowel and mastic. You should just replace the Schluter strip with a 5/16" version the same as your tile. Trying to build up the wall is going to be a real pain if you do not. If your dead fast on using this approach first set the Schluter profile and then build out the back wall with some thin set.
So it sounds like what you are saying is that the adhesive (either mastic or thinset) will squish down to basically no thickness once the tiles are on the wall. If that's the case then I would definitely get the 5/16" version of the Schluter profile. I just didn't want to get the smaller size profile only to find out that after installation the tiles now stuck out beyond the profile by much.

Is the drywall painted? Primed? What size are the tiles?

Is the glass tile clear tile? Is it semi clear?

The glass itself is semi clear but each piece has an opaque white backing to visually block out what is behind it. But obviously that might not be enough to prevent ghosting if I don't get full coverage on the back of the tile.

I feel that there should be no issue with the mastic not drying. Here's a picture of tiles similar to what I bought:
gl-fl-mc-2T.jpg

The tiles are only about 1/2" wide, so no mastic can be more than 1/4" from air. Nevertheless I will digest everything that you both have said and try a test piece before I commit.
Thanks v. m.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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So it sounds like what you are saying is that the adhesive (either mastic or thinset) will squish down to basically no thickness once the tiles are on the wall. If that's the case then I would definitely get the 5/16" version of the Schluter profile. I just didn't want to get the smaller size profile only to find out that after installation the tiles now stuck out beyond the profile by much.



The glass itself is semi clear but each piece has an opaque white backing to visually block out what is behind it. But obviously that might not be enough to prevent ghosting if I don't get full coverage on the back of the tile.

I feel that there should be no issue with the mastic not drying. Here's a picture of tiles similar to what I bought:
View attachment 16419

The tiles are only about 1/2" wide, so no mastic can be more than 1/4" from air. Nevertheless I will digest everything that you both have said and try a test piece before I commit.
Thanks v. m.



Remember that if you use the mastic it can yellow over time and this yellowing might be seen through the glass edges up the sides. What colour grout are you using?

JW
 

agh2112

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The grout will be white. I am guessing that you would suggest white thinset then for the same reason - to avoid any bleed through from the side of the glass?
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Yes. It is very hard to not have the thin-set come up through the grout joints some setting the tile all even. With white thin-set and white grout you will not have to worry about any difference in colour showing through the edges of those clear tiles. If you have all the materials now you could always try a mock up but I think you will find a nice creamy mixture of 254R as easy to work with as mastic.

Lately we have been using drywall paper tape 3 plys as a bond break between the bottom row of tile and the counter top. This will give you a slight void that can be siliconed later after grouting.

JW
 
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