Rural septic system, which Toto is best?

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GNC

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We are in the process of doing a complete remodel of an old farmhouse about 90-100 years old. We'll have all new plumbing from new septic tank to all indoor and outdoor lines.

My problem is I cannot figure out which of the Totos would be best for our situation. We have a well with a submersible pump. I'm worried about the low flow toilets not flushing well and if I have to flush twice, what am I saving?

I like the look of the skirted toilets and being under 5 feet tall, I want a short rim height too. Our current house in the city has a toilet that is original to the home. It's over 60 years old and best I can tell, the stamp says "TRYLON". It performs flawlessly to this day although I know it is a big water user.

I'm stunned at all the posts on this forum and others too where folks say they are replacing 'old' toilets that stop up all the time. I cannot relate to that situation. I cannot remember the last time the plunger was used.

I'd sure appreciate some suggestions as to which Toto model might best be used with a rural septic system with relatively high mineral content water. I cannot use one over 15-16 inch rim height.
 

Gary Swart

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While I think any Toto would work well for you, the less water you put into the septic system the better. I would be looking at the 1.28 gpf models. You can find a very comprehensive coverage of the many Toto models by going to the top of this page and clicking on "Toilet Reviews". Then on the page that comes up, select "Shopping" and finally "Toto Toilets". Then you can scroll through the list which includes pictures, specs, and Terry Love's pricing. Your local pricing may not be the same, but you can get a pretty good idea. One thing you need to understand about toilets is that all low flow toilets are not the same. When low flow first became the law of the land, many manufactures tried to meet the new standards by modifying their old water hogs. Not only did this not work, some of these well known names brands are still clinging to that method. Toto realized early on that the modification of old designs would not work and redesigned their toilets to better meet the requirements. The technology is still involving, but all Toto toilets being marketed today perform well. About the only time a Toto clogs is when something that should never be put in any toilet get flushed. Most of us never experience a clogged toilet. Also, double flushing is rarely, if ever, needed.
 
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Most of the old toilets folks are complaining about are the early 1990's types that were supposed to be low flush (1.6 gal), but were really just the former designs (3.4 gal) with less water for the flush...they were awful and clog frequently especially with children's toilet paper habits. The vinatage you are talking about might be 5 gallons per flush or more.

Totos use a tall enough water column height in the tank, but flush only a portion of it. They also have a larger better configured trapway. Essentially they were fresh designs for 1.6 gpf. I'm using the 1.28 gpf Eco Drake's now. No flushing issues with them, while this home and the last few I've lived in had a lot of flush trouble with 1990's and early toilets. I don't miss them.
 

Jadnashua

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Solids dumped into the drain often do not make it all the way on the first flush. Subsequent uses dump more in, which moves it along. So does taking a shower or a bath, doing dishes, etc. IOW, it is not uncommon for the waste to not always make it to the end point on the first flush. the pipe stays damp, and things move along. The volume of the flush isn't really important as long as it clears the stuff out of the bowl. A good toilet will do that with a small amount of water. Some big water users can't.
 

GNC

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Thanks to all for the replies. I did look at the reviews and have decided on the Drake.

My question now is, since neither of us likes plastic toilet seats, will there be a problem finding a non plastic seat for the elongated Drake?
 

Terry

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Any elongated seat will work with the elongated bowl. Same for the round or regular bowl.
I prefer a good quality plastic seat over a painted seat myself. I've seen too many cracked wood seats with paint chipping off. At least wood doesn't cost much when you need to replace them. Which you will.
 

hj

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The type or brand of toilet has absolutely NOTHING to do with whether you have a sewer or septic tank. All it does is send the waste INTO the pipe, from that point on they are ALL equal.
 

GNC

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Thanks for your input hj. I figured it wouldn't matter going out of the toilet but my concern was with putting a strain on the incoming water by having to flush more than once. Other folks who have lived in the house did not regularly use a clothes washer or automatic dish washer. We will have both and while we may have to drill a new water well at some point, we wanted to use the existing one for as long as possible. It was drilled in the 40s.

And to Terry, I'm sure that wooden toilet seats made today are not the quality of those made 40 years ago but to tell the truth, we've only replaced the seat here in the city once in over 40 years we've lived here and that was because we changed the decor to natural wood so we got a natural oak seat.

I've read some reviews about the plastic seats that because of the water level in the bowl, some females tend to 'splash' up onto the underside of the plastic seats. That was another concern of mine. We are aging and I'm looking for less work, not more. Fortunately, the man of the house has never been in the habit of leaving the seat UP. So, we have no use for the soft close seat.

True enough though, if we need to replace a wooden seat, it's not a big expense. I do appreciate all the replies. I'm about to order my new toilet! Many thanks ;o)
 

hj

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quote; that because of the water level in the bowl, some females tend to 'splash' up onto the underside of the plastic seats.

That also has NOTHING to do with the seat's material. If it splashes a plastic seat, it will do the same with a wood one.
 

Terry

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That also has NOTHING to do with the seat's material. If it splashes a plastic seat, it will do the same with a wood one.

However, with paint, it will soak in. With plastic, you can clean it up like new.
Also, plastic doesn't flake off like paint. Or snap in half like the composite woods.
 

GNC

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However, with paint, it will soak in. With plastic, you can clean it up like new.
Also, plastic doesn't flake off like paint. Or snap in half like the composite woods.


Someone, somewhere on this forum (or maybe another, I've read a lot on Totos) said that the plastic seat configuration on the bottom is prone to trapping the (splashed) urine and is difficult to clean.

Personally, I don't know, have never owned a plastic seat and have never had a wooden seat to break or paint chip off. Perhaps the quality of both wood and plastic has changed. I just know that some friends have plastic seats and I don't like the "feel" of them. And I'm certainly not in the plastic business, but I would think that plastic seats could break too.

I mainly wanted to know if other makers' seats would fit the Toto or if I would be limited to those that Toto recommends.
 

Jadnashua

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As stated previously, there are (with few execptions) round and elongated toilet seats. Buying the manufacturer's seat means it may follow the curves a little closer and match color better, but pretty much any one will fit any toilet. There are a few weird shaped toilets, and you have no choice, but on the Toto line, you have brand flexibility (except maybe, and I'm not sure, in the Neorest line, but they have integrated bidet seats).

Some of the Toto line (and other brands as well) don't make it easy to get to the bottom to tighten up a nut on the bolt holding the seat in place. Toto includes an expanding plug bolt so you can attach the thing from the top. Someone said they found suitable similar ones at the hardware store. Depending on the toilet you select, this may make life much easier. But, some seats don't use a separate bolt, and it gets harder, but not impossible.
 
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