PVC Cement on pipe with flowing water

Users who are viewing this thread

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
My old pressure tank for my well gave out yesterday so I was forced to replace it today. Our well is about 400 feet from our home on the other side of a hill. The incoming pipe is 1" PVC which I had to cut in order to perform the replacement. I had removed the circuit/safety switch prior to any work so the well pump had no power (I had also removed the wiring from the pressure switch). I was not surprised to see water come out after cutting the PVC pipe but I was surprised that it did not even slow after 20 minutes (I'd guess 1 gallon per minute). I decided that it might not stop so I used my PVC cement to put it back together while the water was flowing (I did open the drain on the new tank so no pressure would build up as I worked). FWIW - I was using the 2-part standard PVC cement (purple primer plus glue). The new connection is dripping a drop or two every 10 seconds. I know that I need to remove that weld and try again but I'm trying to figure out my best plan of attack to succeed the second time around. Also, how pressing is this? Do I need to repair it immediately or can it wait a day or two (I don't want total failure!!!). Thanks for any input!

index.php
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Tom Sawyer

In the Trades
Messages
3,625
Reaction score
34
Points
48
Location
Maine
thrice the price of the regular stuff and works just about the same LOL
 

Mliu

Active Member
Messages
580
Reaction score
81
Points
28
Location
Colorado
Are you sure there are no shut-offs that you can use to stop the flow of water? If not, this would be a good time to add some ball valves to your system.

I would never trust any pressurized PVC joint that was not completely dry when the joint was solvent welded, no matter what "glue" was used.
 

michielsemma

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Utah
If the pipe is new, it only takes about 5 minutes to get a bond strong enough to hold water pressure. I would however let it dry for 3-4 hours minimum and over night nominally, just to allow the solvent to cure. If you haven't bought the pvc glue yet, buy the "heavy duty clear" made by a company called Oatey. This is the strongest stuff you can buy in the box stores.
 

Jerome2877

In the Trades
Messages
397
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Location
Vancouver Island , BC
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2035935

Good job on the copy/paste LOL.

That glue is no different than the stuff the OP tried already! I have used the wet dry glue many times in wet conditions and it has always worked. It is extremely fast setting and made for these situations. Do you own stock in Oatey or are you just trying to sound like you know something about plumbing?
 

BobL43

DIY Senior Member
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
8
Points
38
Location
Long Island, NY
If the pipe is new, it only takes about 5 minutes to get a bond strong enough to hold water pressure. I would however let it dry for 3-4 hours minimum and over night nominally, just to allow the solvent to cure. If you haven't bought the pvc glue yet, buy the "heavy duty clear" made by a company called Oatey. This is the strongest stuff you can buy in the box stores.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2035935 This time, it's copy and paste of 2 posts with a minor edit.

Nothing original to contribute? Come on, you must have something to say of your own:)
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
That telescoping coupler is not a Dressler coupler. I did a hurried search for a good photo of a Dressler and finally found that **** has some listings for them. Not suggesting you buy one there, but you can see what they look like. I have used the telescoping coupler successfully on 3/4" sprinkler lines, but I'm a bit doubtful that they would be the best for your situation.
 

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
Ok - so the dressler coupling is a BUST - literally. I do not recommend them for this type of repair. I put one on and was fortunate to be only about 20' away when it BLEW. I thought that I might not have tightened it enough or had the rubber gaskets slid far enough up the pipe, so I gave it a second try. Sure enough, it blew again. So, now I am going to plan C. I've cut the pipe on the vertical and installed a ball-valve. I am waiting 2 hours for the joint to dry and then stopping the flow (completely if all goes well). 2012-03-29 11.01.53 small.jpg
 

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
I've done a little thinking about the absense of a cut-off before the pressure tank. I'm not sure if having one (like I just installed) meets code. If you think about it, giving the home-owner the ability to stop the flow of water before the pressure switch can be a very bad idea. At best, you could burn out your well pump. At worst, bust the pipe somewhere. I would also guess that the builder's plumber didn't even have to consider this problem since the pipes were all installed before the well pump was run for the first time. They wouldn't have had to deal with the syphon effect that I am encountering.
 

Mliu

Active Member
Messages
580
Reaction score
81
Points
28
Location
Colorado
What solvent cement did you use on that joint? I've never seen any that's baby-poop brown.
 

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
What solvent cement did you use on that joint? I've never seen any that's baby-poop brown.

It is Oatey Flowguard Gold. Although it can be used without primer, I still used the primer which might account for the color being a bit unusual.
 

Nukeman

Nuclear Engineer
Messages
707
Reaction score
1
Points
18
Location
VA
That is for CPVC. It looks like you are using PVC, correct?
 

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
That is for CPVC. It looks like you are using PVC, correct?

Yes. I am using PVC. And now that you mention it, I re-read the can and it does say "CPVC Cement". :confused:

Does that mean I have to cut all of this out and try again??? I used it because it was thicker and I felt it would stay on better when it had the water splashing over it.
 

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
Okay - so I found this FAQ Page that seems to suggest that I'm okay. I am a rank amatuer so I will defer to those on this board with more experience. Hopefully, I'm in the clear...
 

Hackney plumbing

Homeowner
Messages
1,130
Reaction score
3
Points
38
Location
Alabama
When using a dressler coupling the pipe must be restrained and not allow movement of the pipe....on each side of the coupling. That and over-tightening are two common mistakes.
 

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
When using a dressler coupling the pipe must be restrained and not allow movement of the pipe....on each side of the coupling. That and over-tightening are two common mistakes.

That makes sense. The pipes pushed themselves apart when under pressure. Fortunately, the coupling failed quickly so I was able to minimize the colateral damage.

The coupling might have worked if I'd put a pressure treated 2x6 under the whole assembly and clamped it all down... Hopefully, I don't need a plan D. ;)
 

Mliu

Active Member
Messages
580
Reaction score
81
Points
28
Location
Colorado
You've said the water is just siphoning (when the well pump is off). Is that correct? How much pressure is generated by the water? Can you put your hand on the end of the pipe and easily stop all the flow?
 

mwolf00

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Virginia
You've said the water is just siphoning (when the well pump is off). Is that correct? How much pressure is generated by the water? Can you put your hand on the end of the pipe and easily stop all the flow?

The flow is pretty steady - I'd guess @ 1 gallon per min. It squirted into my face when I tried to put a rag over it but I would guess that I could block it with my hand without too much effort. And yes, that is with the well pump completely off (circuit breaker removed). I had it flowing into the rig in the picture (redirecting it directly into the sump) for 2 hours with no drop in flow rate. On the plus side, I guess I'll always have a little water even when the power is out :eek:

At this time, it is all back together with no leaks, but it has been noted that I might have used the wrong cement (CPVC cement on PVC pipe).
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks