Just wanted to share......new flooring finished

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Chefwong

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Not too bad for a fake wood floor
Got flooded.....long story short, 10" wide plank flooring ended up having to get gutted. I did not want to get into a situation with wood on the basement and the *what ifs*, so I had it redone in tile.

I'm not a huge fan of tile myself for anything other than the bathroom, laundry room and kitchen backsplash, but I'm quite pleased on the finished results ;-)

Just wanted to share

finals.jpg
 

TJanak

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Ceramic tile? Never seen a wood pattern on tile, but I'm like you, not a big fan of tile. I thought it was vinyl planks. Looks good though.
 

Chefwong

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Heh, if I had it up to me, the laundry room and the bathroom would be wood flooring.

The + side to this is that we plan to bring in a puppy or 2 later on this year, so there are certain positives on that versus them training on the wood flooring throughout the remainder of the house.

I'm officially making this the kids and dogs playpen ;-)
 
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BobL43

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Heh, if I had it up to me, the laundry room and the bathroom would be wood flooring.

The + side to this is that we plan to bring in a puppy or 2 later on this year, so there are certain positives on that versus them training on the wood flooring throughout the remainder of the house.

I'm officially making this the kids and dogs playpen ;-)

Looks Great! I'm going to install 5X32 inch porcelain "wood planks" soon in my bathroom reno. I picked them up a few weeks ago.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Nice looking floor Chef Wong.

With larger tile the nw industry standard is no more than a 1/3 running bond. This is because of lippage issues.

Your install looks very natural and random.

Nice work!

JW
 

Chefwong

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Hey Bob - You def want to make sure you're floor is as flat as it can be with a 32" L tile.
Pool table flat.

It's all in the P.
PREP
prep, prep prep so you're not fighting all day to avoid lippage on that size tile.
 

Jadnashua

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Working with a tile that large, for the DIY'er, I think you'd really find something like the TLS or QEP tile leveling system would help immensely. Each of those systems uses a plastic T-shaped tab that fits underneath the edges of two adjacent tile, then a block is attached to 'pull' the two edges into perfect height alignment. The TLS system uses a ratchet gun sort of like thing on tie-wraps to tighten it up, and the QEP uses a wedge. After the tile mortar sets up overnight, you whack them sideways and the tab breaks off underneath the tile so you can then get full grout depth. You can reuse the wedges or caps, but each tab is a one-time use. Well worth the cost for the improved results. While you can to this without, it takes a lot more skill and time. The floor still needs to be quite flat first, though, regardless of whether you use one of these systems or not or it may be beyond the capabilities of a DIY'er to get it flat, and would be challenging for a pro.
 

BobL43

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Working with a tile that large, for the DIY'er, I think you'd really find something like the TLS or QEP tile leveling system would help immensely. Each of those systems uses a plastic T-shaped tab that fits underneath the edges of two adjacent tile, then a block is attached to 'pull' the two edges into perfect height alignment. The TLS system uses a ratchet gun sort of like thing on tie-wraps to tighten it up, and the QEP uses a wedge. After the tile mortar sets up overnight, you whack them sideways and the tab breaks off underneath the tile so you can then get full grout depth. You can reuse the wedges or caps, but each tab is a one-time use. Well worth the cost for the improved results. While you can to this without, it takes a lot more skill and time. The floor still needs to be quite flat first, though, regardless of whether you use one of these systems or not or it may be beyond the capabilities of a DIY'er to get it flat, and would be challenging for a pro.

the subfloor is quite flat, and I already bought the LASH clips and wedges from HD. Got to use minimum 3/8 sq notched trowel according to LASH instructions. I'm no pro, but I'll do my absolute best at this. Would not want to hurt my wife's footsies on lippage
 

Jadnashua

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I didn't notice a minimum trowel notch depth on the TLS, but it may be there. Keep in mind that often, the larger the tile, the deeper the notch you generally need to ensure 100% coverage and have enough latitude to keep things in plane - just a small variation in holding the trowel can affect the amount of thinset applied. Also, on a tile that large, you should backbutter the tile. I didn't know that they make a manual tool for the TLS, so that might affect the cost. Setting those large tile will go a lot faster with one of the leveling systems and produce a better job.
 

BobL43

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I didn't notice a minimum trowel notch depth on the TLS, but it may be there. Keep in mind that often, the larger the tile, the deeper the notch you generally need to ensure 100% coverage and have enough latitude to keep things in plane - just a small variation in holding the trowel can affect the amount of thinset applied. Also, on a tile that large, you should backbutter the tile. I didn't know that they make a manual tool for the TLS, so that might affect the cost. Setting those large tile will go a lot faster with one of the leveling systems and produce a better job.

Jim, I'm doing this tile job myself, and its only a 7X7 foot floor. I've been back buttering everything I've tiled so far, and will definitely do these also. The minimum 3/8" trowel spec is on the LASH bag they come in.

Thanks
 

KStatefan

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Not too bad for a fake wood floor
Got flooded.....long story short, 10" wide plank flooring ended up having to get gutted. I did not want to get into a situation with wood on the basement and the *what ifs*, so I had it redone in tile.

I'm not a huge fan of tile myself for anything other than the bathroom, laundry room and kitchen backsplash, but I'm quite pleased on the finished results ;-)

Just wanted to share

finals.jpg


That looks very nice. What brand of tile?
 
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