Iron filter selection

[oldsch]

Hi
I'm just starting to learn about water treatment and trying to put together a system.
Here's what I know so far...


Had 2 basic tests done about a week apart:

#1
Iron 4 mgl
Hardness 12 gr
pH 7.0
TDS 340

#2
Iron 1.5 mgl
Hardness 15 gr
pH 7.0
TDS 231


New well, 10+ gpm flow.
3 people, 1 bathroom.

If I fill a glass, the water has a slight red/brown color at first then clears with red layer at the bottom
of the glass. Mild to moderate sulfur odor on both hot and cold.


One company is recommending an "IRON BREAKER" filter. I'm a bit skeptical. I can't find much info on this filter and it doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I guess the idea is to oxidize the iron by letting the water fall through an air pocket before the filter media. It doesn't seem like there would be enough contact with air to really do anything but that's just a guess on my part.

The other filter I was considering is PYROLOX. But some sites say that you need 10, 20, 30... a million! gpm to backwash these. But that seems to be the only downside??? If thats true why not just get 2 small PYROLOX filters and backwash them at different times? It would still be cheaper than the Iron Breaker?

Or could I just use a softener to handle the iron?
Thanks

 

[Mialynette2003]

First of all, there is a big difference between the 2 tests as far as iron. A softener will handle the iron but my concern is with the sulfur. If the smell is due to the iron, than it will go away once the iron is gone. If not, you will have to treat for the sulfur. What I would recommend is to install a softener to see if it will take care of the smell as well as the iron and the hardness first. Then if you still have the smell, get a chlorination system for the sulfur.

 

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[LLigetfa]

If I fill a glass, the water has a slight red/brown color at first

If it starts out that colour, it is already oxidized. If the water draws clear and then turns that colour from exposure to air, contact time might be a concern.

My birm type iron filter uses a micronizer and a 30 gallon precipitation tank for contact time. My water draws clear but looks like a blood bath when left to sit.

 

[Tom Sawyer]

You don't have all that much iron to worry about but the hardness is high. I would start sizing up a softener first but, wait a couple of weeks, run the well and test again. I suspect the sulfur odor may improve by itself. It's fairly common for a new well.

 

[Gary Slusser]

You can't use birm with any H2s (sulfur) in the water.

My experience with H2S is that it usually gets worse with time and if not it doesn't go away.

Pyrolox is very heavy and requires a high gpm to backwash it correctly. It is not very popular due to that requirement. Two smaller filters is not a good idea.

If the H2S doesn't go away, then I'd use chlorine for the iron and H2S and any bacteria present now or in the future. Then a carbon filter to remove the rust and chlorine followed by a softener.

The air pump is a good choice and I sold many of them but they require some maintenance. I don't like air injection.

 

[Tom Sawyer]

I have never had HS2 get worse and I have had it go away very often but every case is different. Again, there's no rush here so I would give it a week or so before making a decision. I'm not a fan of air injection either but it does work

 

[Gary Slusser]

Very probably because of the geology in your area and its low recovery wells, and the odor possibly being from bacteria more than H2S gas. Granite is not conducive to H2S formation. You don't have many oil or gas wells up there in "the great frozen north" either.

 

[Tom Sawyer]

Nope, I'll agree with you there. In all the years I've lived in these parts I have never seen a single oil or gas well. It could very well be a geology thing also. We are blessed with sitting on the largest fresh water aquifir in the world.