Basement humidity in the NE is predominantly an air-infiltration problem, and dehumidification is usually only necessary in basements when the outdoor dew points are ~55F or higher (since 55F dew point air pulled into a 68F basement raises the relative humidity of the basement to ~65%.)
If you air-seal the band joist & foundation sill with an inch or two of closed cell spray foam (or careful application of caulk & 1-part foam such as GreatStuff) and tighten up all exterior windows, doors & flues, the house pulls in less outdoor air into the basements and humidity loads for a whole basement are easily handled by a mid-sized room-dehumidifier. Many/most have provisions designed in for a hose attachment to allow draining to a sump or sink rather than relying on manual dumping. I have 1500' of basement, and a ~500W room dehumidifier that keeps the whole basement under 60% RH with PLENTY of margin, even with outdoor dew points well into the 70s. Mine is set up to drain into an existing sump. (The slab is near the average water table- even during the dry season the groundwater water is less than 2' below the slab, so we have several sumps with pumps to keep the slab dry during the the springtime rainy seasons when the groundwater rises a bit.)
If you want to go one better (it's a bigger project, but with bigger payoff), insulating the basement walls to R15+ (1-2" of extruded polystyrene on the foundation walls + 2x4 studwall snugged up against it with UNFACED R13 batts, no interior vapor retarder/barrier of any type), the temp of the basement will come up several degrees, which lowers the relative humidity. (Depending on where you are in NY you may need more than 1" of XPS to prevent wintertime moisture accumulation in the studwall, but 2" would be more than enough everywhere.) If the basement walls are already finished sans-insulation, there may be other options, but the options depends on the particulars.
To keep mold at bay you need only keep it below ~60% relative humidity, but the lower you set it, the greater the duty cycle when outdoor dew points are high- it can add up to quite a bit of electricity in a season if you're going for a bone-dry 40%RH.
True, an Aprilaire 1730 will run at higher efficiency, than the best of the room-versions but they're expensive enough to consider applying that money to a mini-split heat pump with a dehumidifcation mode for only ~2x the installed cost of the Aprilaire that could also heat & air condition the basement at high efficiency. (IIRC Samsung, Sanyo and several others have an explicit dehumidify-mode, as well as sensible-cooling & space heating modes of operation.) The better mini-splits are WAY more efficient than window-shakers in cooling mode, and even at 20cent/kwh electricity cost less than half as much to operate than a state-of-the art oil or propane burner (about the same operating cost as $1.50/therm natural gas in a 90% AFUE burner when in heating mode when it's 20F outside, cheaper when it's 30F+.) A mini-split with the interior unit mounted over the sink (either a ceiling or wall-type mount) would be as easy or easier than an Aprilaire.
Enough derailment- I don't know if online is better than local, but if you can find one through local distribution the support might be better than a random online vendor.