Refrigeration grade 1/4" coil ok for refrigerator water /ice?

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whoru9999

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Hello,

I am running a new line to my refrigerator for ice / water. I have some 1/4" copper coil tubing that is refrigeration grade. Can I use that for the run, or should I buy utility grade?

What is the difference between the 2 types?
 

Tom Sawyer

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it is fine. refer grade just means that it has been evacuated with nitrogen and the ends sealed against moisture.
 

hj

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REfrigeration grade means it is a thinner tubing than "L" or "K", but also not the same as "M". Reefer tubing in all sizes comes in 50' foot coils rather than the 60' and 100' common to plumbing grade tubing. I have seen people use 3/4" and 1" reefer tubing for buried water lines because it was "cheaper" than the plumbing tubing. They were unaware, or unconcerned, about it being a thinner material. In the smaller sizes 1/4" and 3/8" reefer tubing is usually all you can get.
 

Jimbo

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I believe for Type K/L/M coils, the nominal size corresponds to the inner diameter. For Type ACR, however, the nominal size corresponds to the outer diameter. So 1/4 ACR is smaller than 1/4 Type K/L/M.]

That is true. To be consistent, we should all refer to an icemaker hookup as 1/8" tube since it is for water. But the fact is, the industry and the trade have universally adapoted "acr" terminology when referring to water tubing in sizes less than 1/2".
 

hj

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quote; Utility grade has the same OD as ACR,

ALL copper tubing has the same o.d., regardless of whether it is specified by i.d., or o.d. Fittings would NOT work with it if there were different o.d.s.
 

Gary Swart

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You might want to consider using a flexible line with steel mesh over it. These don't kink when you move the refrigerator.
 

Tom Sawyer

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Yes Gary, good post. You can get the entire kit, braided stainless line, valve and all the connectors from fluidmaster
 

hj

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We might have two different situations here. The braided hose is for use in connecting the water TO the refrigerator, once the water line is in the area, but he might be using the copper tubing to GET the water to the refrigerator area.
 

whoru9999

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After reading all of this, I decided to just sweat some new 1/2" L and make a new run that terminates with a valve behind the fridge. I will use SS braided from the valve to the fridge.

Seems like the most professional way to go.
 

Gary Swart

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That's what I thought you were doing in the first place. After reading HJ's reply, I could see there was another possibility in your question. FWIW, when I did my installation, I spent a couple of bucks extra and put a ball valve after the tee in the main line so if ever necessary, I can shut off the water to the entire ice maker line at that point.
 
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