Replace White-Rodgers IF92 Tstat with new Honeywell VisionPro

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coaster16

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Hi all,
I'm trying to replace a White Rodgers IF92-71 and can't seem to find the installation manual to check a couple of the wires, and wondered if anyone knows this one. I'm hooking up a Trane XE1000 heat pump with Trane TWEO36C air handler to a Honeywell/Trane TH8320 Tstat. Most of the wires on the IF92 have equivalents on the Honeywell, but a couple don't. In particular, the black wire currently hooked to the IF92's E1 has no equivalent on the Honeywell. I'm assuming it should go to the X2 position. Is that right? The wiring from the two tstats is:

previously hooked up to White/Rodgers IF92-71

O - (OR)orange Red Jumper - W1
B - (BL) black - E1
Y1 - Red Jumper,(YL)yellow - E2
Y2 - - L
C - (BL) blue (RD)red - R
G - (GR) green (WH)white - W2
- W3

wires from trane air handler not connected brown, pink, gray

Connections available on Honeywell/Trane TH8320

Y2 RC jumpered to R below
F R
X2 O
W1 Y
S1 G
S2 B

Thanks for any help.
 

Rat

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You have a heat pump with two stages of Auxiliary heat (heat strips). So really you have three stages of heat: Heat pump, Aux 1, and Aux 2.
So:
O = Orange wire (from reversing valve)
W1 = first stage of electric heat
X2 = second stage of electric heat

B = on this thermostat is 24vac COMMON! Do not hook your 24vac to RC, this is not a common terminal and will blow the fuse.

You will need to go into the installers set up menu to tell this stat that it is controlling a heat pump, the number of stages etcetera...

I know you are trying to save a little money but this can get out of hand very quickly, have several 5A auto fuses handy, you may need them.

You wiring summary doesn't make much sense either, why was Y1 jumpered and what was it jumpered to? What about yellow on E2? There is no set code on low voltage colors like there is for high voltage (NEC), but there is a generally accepted color code we all use: yours seems all monkeyed up.
 

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coaster16

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thanks, guys. The link to the WR document was the main thing I was looking for. rat, my wiring above looks goofed up because the spacing I put in was removed by the form, apparently. Actual wiring from the IF92-71 was:

O - orange
B - blank
Y1 - Yellow, plus jumpered to W1
Y2 - blank
C - blue
G - green
W1 - as above, jumpered to Y1
E1 - black
E2 - blank
L - blank
R - red
W2 - white

The labeling on the Trane version of the tstat is slightly different than the supposedly identical Honeywell TH8320. For some reason they changed the labels on the Honeywell version to a new label on a couple of the contacts. I'm assuming that the functionality is the same despite the changed labels.
 

Rat

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thanks, guys. The link to the WR document was the main thing I was looking for. rat, my wiring above looks goofed up because the spacing I put in was removed by the form, apparently. Actual wiring from the IF92-71 was:

O - orange
B - blank
Y1 - Yellow, plus jumpered to W1
Y2 - blank
C - blue
G - green
W1 - as above, jumpered to Y1
E1 - black
E2 - blank
L - blank
R - red
W2 - white

The labeling on the Trane version of the tstat is slightly different than the supposedly identical Honeywell TH8320. For some reason they changed the labels on the Honeywell version to a new label on a couple of the contacts. I'm assuming that the functionality is the same despite the changed labels.

Actually, Trane/American Standard changed the labels; the stat is built by Honeywell.
your wiring looks more normal now as well, thanks for clearing that up. On the new stat there will be NO jumper between Y1 and W1, that is how the old WR was configured in heat pump mode. The new XL802 uses programming to do it, not jumpers.

So E1 from old goes to W1 on new
W2 on old goes to X2 on new
Everything else should be the same, also, you may need to tell the stat that the reversing valve is energized in COOLING (O active). This is the default setting on the Honeywell and may not be an option on the XL802, I can't remember: but if you get heat when it calls for cooling this is proly the problem. This is done in the installers set up menu.
 

coaster16

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Thanks, Rat. I knew that the Trane tstat is made by Honeywell. Just poor phraseology on my part.

I had the wiring exactly as you posted, based on reading the manuals, but it still wasn't going into heating when I turned it on. The fan was working properly, and I could hear the heat relay click in, but no heat pump. Doh! I hadn't programmed the Installer settings. Oh well. It's working very well now, and I think all of its functionality seems to be in place. It was too warm here to tell very well yesterday whether I was really getting the right amount of heat output, but this morning I turned it all on and Perfecto!

Thanks again. Problems all gone. :cool:
 
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