Too Much Air in the well/pressure tank system

[Jerome77]

Is an air release valve or a combo air relief valve required between the pump and the pressure tank? Or is it required between the tank and the sediment filter? If so, how many? Where are they located? What type?

The pressure tank is 300-feet away from the pump and it is 9 feet below the pump level. Occasionally the pressure at the sediment filter is dropping to 0 (every few days) and no water in the house. However, once I release the air in the sediment filter through the filter valve the pressure will go up high and match the tank pressure. I have 40/60 square D switch and there is a check valve between the tank and the pump located at the tank. I also sometimes see milky water in the faucet. And searched and found that I probably have two much air in the system.

The system consists of pump, check valve, 52 gallon pressure tank, 22 micron sediment filter, Fleck 5600 SE softener, 5 Micron filter, 15GPM UV system.

I also have also two manual valves between the pump and the pressure tank where I can shut off the water coming to the house and manually turn the pump on to water few trees around the house with untreated water. To do this the pump control box has 3-way switch. The Auto is for the pressure tank, Off, and manual for tree watering.

I was thinking of adding a combo air release/air relief/vacuum valve before the check valve and another air/vacuum relief on the sediment filter inflow. Is this correct?

I would really appreciate your help to solve the air issue in the piping..

Thank You.

 

[Valveman]

Submersible or Jet Pump? If you can't post a picture, list the components in order from the pump forward.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jerome77]

It is 1 HP submersible pump, two manually operated shut off valve, check valve, 52-Gallon pressure tank, 22 micron Sediment filter, Fleck 5600 SE softener, 5 micron filter, Sterilight PQ12SA UV system, House.

 

[Gary Slusser]

It sounds as if you have a leak allowing air into the water line.

The check valve at the pressure tank may be hiding a leak in the well above the water level, and/or the check valve at/in the pump is leaking.

Or the softener is sucking air at the end of the brine draw/slow rinse position of a regeneration because the air check isn't sealing AND something, toilet, RO, ice maker etc. is using water during regeneration allowing the air into the plumbing.

 

[Jerome77]

Thank you Gary. The whole system is 1 month old including the pump and the check valve (Simmons Brass). The air is building slowly as the sediment filter pressure is dropping to zero every few days. Could the high tempearture cause the excessive amount of the air in the pipes?

Will an Air release valve at the pump solve the problem?

Do I need to have another air relase valve at the seidment filter inflow?

Again thanks for your help.

 

[NHmaster]

the bladder tank is bad

 

[Gary Slusser]

The whole system is 1 month old including the pump and the check valve (Simmons Brass). The air is building slowly as the sediment filter pressure is dropping to zero every few days. Could the high tempearture cause the excessive amount of the air in the pipes?

Will an Air release valve at the pump solve the problem?

Do I need to have another air relase valve at the seidment filter inflow?

You did read my previous reply right? Water temp has nothing to do with air in your lines.

You don't want air relief valves, you must find and cure the cause of the air intrusion. If you have a leak in the drop pipe, and it's a fitting and it breaks, the pump falls down the well.

You should also get rid of the cartridge filter(s) unless your water is visibly dirty.

Why do you have the check valve at the pressure tank?

Why the cartridge filter(s)?

Your pressure won't change because there is air in the water, your filter cartridge is blocked up and water can't get through it.

IMO the bladder tank can't put air in you water unless it is dissolved into the water; air can't get out the bottom of the pressure tank.

 

[Jerome77]

Gary, I have the check valve at the tank because water flew backward when the system was initially installed. I think the pump does not have a check valve at all. I think ther eis only one check valve in the whole system. Upon installing the check valve at the pressure tank every thing was working fine.

I have a one inch plastic filter with 22 micron screen (Amiad). The air is entrapped in this filter and once I open the valve at the bottom of the filter the pressure will go up again.

How would I get rid of the dissolved air in the water? I think it is dissolved air as the water is cloudy sometimes and will clear up quickly. Are you saying that an air release valve will not help at all?

Another question, to protect my pump, which Cycle Stop Valve I should buy for this system? Peak demand is 12 GPM, current pressure switch is 40/60 and I am thinking of changing it to 50/70 so I can get rid of the booster pump of the GE Merlin RO system. The CSV needs to be set at 60 PSI. Is this correct?

Again, thank you Gary for your help.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

A submersible pump has a check valve in it. You have a leak in the well or a bad pump allowing the water column to drop. Fix it and your air problem will be resolved.