11" rough in??? Do I get 10" toilet or is there another option

Users who are viewing this thread

PabNYC

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
NYC
I just bought a new house and the rough in is 11". The existing 30 y.o. toilet fits perfectly but I have never heard of an 11" rough in. Should I just get a 10" toilet and deal with the space behind it or is there another option? I went to my local plumbing supply and they told me to have a plumber get an offset flange.

Thanks!

Pablo
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
You are close on this.

Most 12" rough toilets have 3/4" behind the toilet, thus they will mount with 11.25" from the wall, measured from the wall to the center of the drain.

Sometimes you can move the bolts out that extra 1/4" and install the standard 12" toilet anyway.

If not, the other option is the 10" toilet. Every manufacturer has the 10" option. Some use a thinner tank, sometimes a modified bowl to 10" and then there are those that use an adapter to change the rough distance.

I would not consider an offset flange for your bathroom. They don't work well, and the expense of ripping up your floor would be way more that buying the right toilet for your home. There are no plumbers that like offset flanges in the floor.

TOTO now has a 10" dual flush at the factory.
I'm bringing some here for the Seattle area.

In 2021 TOTO brought out their new Drake model which will install at 9-1/4" from the wall.

index.php






cadet_pro_10c.jpg


The American Standard Cadet Pro with the 10" tank space saver.
 
Last edited:

PabNYC

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
NYC
Thanks

Thanks Terry!!!

I have a 12" toilet to replace also so I will buy that one first and try it to see if it works.
 

Fit

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Minnesota
Hi all-

I'm definitely not the plumbing type but ran across this thread and am wondering if things have changed in the last few years.

I'm remodeling the downstairs bath... 11" rough in exactly, in concrete. I cannot adjust the screws forward at all. The old toilet was smack right against the wall.

I was coveting the various ECO Toto's based on the reviews here but all seem to be 12" roughs.So I guess 10" is it? Or does the adapter allow me to readily sit a 12" rough on an 11" rough?

I was going to do this myself but may need to go the plumber route to get this right.
 

Redwood

Master Plumber
Messages
7,335
Reaction score
13
Points
0
Location
Connecticut
The Drake and Eco-Drake both show in their specs a 1 1/8" gap behind the tank. In theory it should fit an 11" rough in with a 1/8" gap betwen the wall and the tank. However, There are tolerances in the manufacturing process and we are hoping that it would not be a plus sized toilet. You could give it a try and see if you get it in there... Its a shoehorn fit for sure!

drake_spec_gif.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:

msimon

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
We had the same problem last summer (2007) with a 11" rough-in.

HD sells a (Glacier Bay) Niagara 1.6 gpf toilet with the 11" rough-in. Note this is the 1.6 gpf version (not 1.3 gpf). We've had no problems flushing larger "objects".

The Niagara toilets are flapperless. I like this, since it seems to me that I'm replacing flappers every two years or so, even w/out the use of cleaning tablets in there. Also, there's no wasted water running down the drain while you wait for the float to fall back down. Out of interest, does anyone else perceive this as a better design to toilets with the flappers?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Niagara toilet with flapperless tray. does anyone else perceive this as a better design to toilets with the flappers?

Not when we have reports of the tray sticking against the side of the tank and running.
Or how often the handles break.

It certainly is an option though. They work from 10" to 12"
 
Last edited:

msimon

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Hmm, it still seems like a good design to me. It's the execution that seems flawed.

Or how often the handles break.
That's the manufacturer using a cheap quality part.

Not when we have reports of the tray sticking against the side of the tank and running.
This I have seen when my 4-year old (or myself) gives the handle a half-harded push and only half the water empties out of the tray. A simple fix is to push a little harder and pull up on the handle afterwards. The whole step takes less than a second. I list this one in the same category as slapping the handle on a regular toilet and having the chain kink, which also causes the water to continuously run.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Except there are lots of people with hearing problems, and some with faked hearing problems.
They hear the water running and running, but just walk out.

Some of my older customers can't hear when they have a leaking toilet.
They give me this funny look when I ask them how high their water bill is sometimes.
And when they look at their next water bill, Well then it's imperative that I get right out there and fix their old leaker.

You don't have to jiggle the Toto handle.
 

Redwood

Master Plumber
Messages
7,335
Reaction score
13
Points
0
Location
Connecticut
I still remember well the first Niagra Flapperless Toilet I ever saw. It was in the home of an HD employee and it was clogged! They were paying me to auger the toilet...

I told him that he should stop buying toilets there because they don't sell the Toto line.:D

I'm less than impressed with the Niagra Flapperless design and have now augered quite a few of them. I do wonder though... When Niagra goes belly up where are the parts going to be?:confused:
 

TorontoTim

Member
Messages
125
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Toronto, ON Canada
I was considering using an offset flange to move my toilet over a couple of inches - purely cosmetic reasons. However, I found that the offset flanges I could find (and it of course makes sense) are quite a bit deeper than a standard flange, meaning you need to lower the drain in the floor, which then of course impacts your slope to the stack.

Maybe there are offset flanges out there that you can retrofit into an existing system, but it seems to me the very nature of an offset flange would require some additional height.

While I'm typing, I have a silly question. It seems 'rough-in' for toilets actually means from the center of the drain to the drywall, not the framing of the wall. When I read 'rough' I have always assumed it meant to the framing, i.e. the rough carpentry. Thankfully I've not been installing toilets all over the place ;)

So is this really the definition of 'rough-in' - i.e. to the finished wall surface?
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Yes, the rough-in on a toilet flange is from its center to the FINSHED wall (note, this does not need to deal with baseboard unless it is huge, but wainscoating can be a problem - it is the new thicker wall!). that may be one reason my most toilets have a planned gap behind them, but it varies...if you install the flange properly, any 12" toilet should fit on a 12" rough-in.
 

LG Jon

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Calif
I also have an 11" rough in, and would like to use the Drake. But I notice the current model shows only 13/16" behind the tank (as opposed to the 1 1/8" shown in the drawing above).


Will that still work with 11"? Sounds tight...

If not, is there another 11" option? I'd rather not go to 10" and have that space behind :-(

Thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks