Toto flush valve leaks

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JLSVA

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I intalled a Toto Supreme toilet about two years ago. After about six months the water in the tank began to drain into the bowl, very slowly at first then faster. I have replaced the flush valve gasket several times since then, each time the leak is fixed but it comes back after a few months. Is there something I can do to make a more permanent fix?
 

Jadnashua

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My original one lasted about 2-years. Toto has a 5-year warranty - they sent me a new one free.

Do you use anything in the tank, such as a clorine cleaner? If so, stop. Other than that, no idea. Some water supplies are tough on rubber.
 

JLSVA

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I have soft water in the whole house. Do you think that could do it?
 

GeorgeP

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Toto Flush Valve Leak - revisited

I just bought and installed a Toto Drake toilet, with tank model ST743S01. I bought Toto because of all the positive reviews at this and other sites. I have been back to the store 3 times in the last three days because of continued leaks from the flush valve on this tank. The first tank ended up being defective. The next tank leaked when installed, and since I do not have a proper tool to tighten the nut, returned to the plumbing supply store where I purchased this tank, and they tightened the nut for me. I reinstalled the tank, and it still leaks, although at a lower rate. I just sent an email to the Toto people so they can help me better understand why I am having this problem, and what should/could be done. For all the positive things I have read, I am not sure if this is just a quirk with what I have purchased, or it others are having the same problem. I will keep you posted on the response. For what this unit cost, I should not be having these problems.
 

GeorgeP

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Toto response

Terry, thanks for the reply, but the fact is that I received two tanks that both leaked. Here is part of the reply from Toto, who obviously are concerned and quickly want to make it right...

"I apologize for the unusual trouble you have had. This is far and away not a common issue with our toilets and the model you have does not have any known problems in this area. I know its no consolation to you and understand your frustrations, but I am as surprised and concerned as you.

Your present tank that has had the flush valve tightened but still leaks could be fixed with a replacement flush valve. Our manufacturing process includes human tightening by extremely reliable and repeatable manual Torque Wrenches. Your flush valve that seemed tight but moved suggests, it may indeed have been properly tightened but may have had an imperfection in the seal or even a possible case of the plastic itself being warped and defective.

Again I apologize for the repeated similar problems but ask that you allow us to help you by sending you a new flush valve, tank gasket, and tank to bowl hardware. These new components correctly installed will solve your problem. The flush valve nut does not need to be extremely tight only that a large enough tool be used to sufficiently seal it. During the replacement, I recommend a very close investigation of the inside the tank sealing surfaces where the gaskets sit and the bowl connection area, too. Look for any signs of imperfections, hairline cracks, or even raised ridges or lines. These are highly unlikely but I strongly recommend special attention to cover any and all possibilities. If you do find an imperfection or odd shape in the area you may elect to return the component for a replacement as defect."
 

Terry

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inside_tank_cst744s.jpg

Sometimes a little emory cloth works wonders. Anytime we install a toilet, and it doesn't matter what the brand is, we sand where the bolts drop through.
There have been a few times in the last two thousand toilets, where we removed a flush valve, the part that holds the flapper, and sanded where that fit in too.
Like the statement above from Toto, there could be a small imperfection in the casting.
Sometimes it's just a tiny little speak of a bump that can prevent a seal from working.
Most leaks from tank to bowl, are the flapper.
Most of them last a few years.
I've seen some chemicals mess em up pretty good.
If water is going over the overflow tube, then there may be a "fill valve" repair needed.
That can be as simple as cleaning out small specks of dirt, or replacing the rubber seal.

I will say that of the three thousand Toto toilets I sell every year, I rarely ever find anything wrong.
I can't say that about the other brands I sell.
And if I have a problem with a customers toilet, I handle myself. Toto backs me up very well.
 
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SRdenny

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Contact your local Toto rep and explain your situation. He'll send you a more permanent fix to your problem.
 

anim8r

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Mine leaks too. Need tool help!

One of our two Toto Drakes (ST743S), has developed a leak around the flush valve nut. I have had no luck finding a suitable tool to tighten it. A food-dye test confirmed it is the nut and not the flapper. Nor is it the tank bolts. Finding a tool to tighten this nut has proven to be a nightmare. The toilet has been out of service for many weeks now. At 3.5", no one seems to make a spud wrench large enough to handle it. One store suggested an oil filter wrench. A Toto rep suggested a strap wrench. This skinny vinyl nut defies both. It is too low in profile for a strap wrench (which simply slips off), while an oil filter wrench warps the nut so it refuses to turn, and would strip it completely if I were foolish enough to keep trying. Another Toto rep suggested "a large, inexpensive pipe wrench". Well, I shopped around. It seems a wrench with 3.5" jaws is truly massive and will set you back $90 minimum. Hardly inexpensive. All to tighten a nut one half-turn? This is ridiculous. How do the pros handle this sort of thing?

Background: This Drake, which was contractor-installed, developed a wobble after just under two years. The wax ring began to leak. The contractor is long-gone. I installed a new wax ring and shimmed the toilet myself. It is is now quite steady. While removing the Drake however, the tank was disturbed in such a manner that the flush valve nut developed a slow leak.

When it's working the Toto's performance is great, but support has been, shall we say, extremely frustrating.

Note to Terry: I'll try the emory cloth though the nut will still only be hand-tight.
 

Mikey

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I've got an adjustable wrench ("Ace Clip & Lock-Nut Wrench")that looks like a big Crescent wrench:

PICT0119.JPG

The screw holding the two pieces together limits the capacity to 3 1/8", but if you remove the screw you can easily get a 3 1/2" opening. You could then either drill another hole to receive the screw in a new location, or clamp the two parts together.

The bad news is, I've had it for over 40 years, and don't know where to get another one. Google hasn't heard of it. A good plumbing supply house might be able to help.

I have also seen huge slip-joint pliers at reasonable cost at Harbor Freight -- they'd probably last long enough to tighten one nut. If all else fails, get a piece of 1/8" steel or aluminum and make a 3 1/2" wrench. Any 8th-grade metal-shop student could do a bang-up job.
 

Terry

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We carry large water pump pliers in the truck.
Jamie always gives the large nut at the bottom of the tank a squeak to make sure it's tight.
Plumbers have been doing that for as long as I've been plumbing.
There have always been some brands that just have parts in the box, and the plumber assembles on the job.
We install toilets all week long. Jamie goes from house to house, banging in toilets all day long.
reed-pliers.jpg


http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/483_-_20_1_4_inch_V_-_Jaw_Ton_P3C4.cfm
 
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anim8r

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Thanks all for the suggestions. Terry: I purchased those Channellock pliers and they worked like a charm. Even Toto themselves could not provide this recommendation. I will let them know about it and hopefully some poor souls in the future will be spared a similar ordeal.

AH
 

rebbry

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Water going over the overflow tube

inside_tank_cst744s.jpg


If water is going over the overflow tube, then there may be a "fill valve" repair needed.
That can be as simple as cleaning out small specks of dirt, or replacing the rubber seal.

So Terry, where do look for the small specks of dirt? And if that doesn't work, which rubber seal needs replacing? Thanks!
 

Jadnashua

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Go to the korky site and look at the service instructions. basically, you pop the blue cap off, remove the float, then the cap, and pull out the filter. Look in the inner cap (it is replaceable for a few bucks and has the seal), and at the strainer assembly. Shut the supply off first or you'll be taking a shower!




hunter_exploded.jpg



A. Turn off water supply. Flush toilet. Remove refill tube and snap off cover (A)
B. Remove float by gently squeezing float arms inward. (B)
C. While holding valve with one hand, twist cap 1/8 turn counter-clockwise and remove. (C)
D. Lift out center tube. (D)
E. Use pliers to remove strainer from center tube. (E) Clean strainer and cap by rinsing under running water.
F. Re-assemble valve by reversing the above procedure. Note: If the main valve is worn out, (look inside cap), cleaning will not suffice, and a Replacement Cap Assembly, Hunter P/N R528 will be required.
Note: If the fill valve turns on and off by itself, or runs continuously without spilling into the overflow tube, the problem is not the valve. The fill valve is running due to a slow leak in the tank, probably caused by a flapper. Either worn out or misaligned.
 
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rebbry

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Still overflowing

Thanks, Jim.

I serviced per instructions. Water continued to leak out the overflow valve. I replaced the cap assembly. Still leaking out the overflow valve.

Any other ideas? The Toto is only a few years old and hasn't been used heavily.

Rebecca
 

Terry

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Rebbeca,
Are we talking the same style of valve?
Toto has two types.
Can you attach a picture of yours?
Korky make the one in the picture above, and then they have one that is sourced somewhere else.
 

rebbry

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Terry, The setup is the same as your color photo on this page. Got the Korky cap replacement that says it works with Toto toilets and looks identical to the one removed.

Rebecca
 
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